The North Coast Trail is an exciting yet difficult 43km long coastal hiking adventure along the northwestern coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
While humbling at times, the NCT is a spectacular and memorable backpacking route featuring beautiful beach camping spots, old growth forests and lots of potential wildlife watching opportunities.
After completing the trail in August 2024, I had so much to share that I decided to split our hiking guide into two.
This particular post features a detailed trail description, with comprehensive campground information and itinerary inspiration.
For other trip planning guidance (shuttles, parking, essential items and more), head to our main North Coast Trail guide.
Here’s the breakdown:
As mentioned, we hiked the NCT very recently, so all of the information provided reflects the current state of the trail and the campgrounds.
The North Coast Trail has significantly increased in popularity in the last four years but maintenance and infrastructure have also improved. Let’s get into it!
Published September 2024
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Backcountry necessities
- Always bring the 10 Essentials
- Know how to stay safe in the backcountry
- Remember to Leave No Trace to help keep the wilderness wild
- Understand how to avoid negative bear encounters
- Trying out backpacking for the first time? Read Backpacking 101
- Check out our packing guide with gear recommendations
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North Coast Trail hike breakdown
Read on to discover what to expect when hiking the 43km long North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park, on the traditional territory of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people.
This detailed section-by-section description is written from east to west, the most popular direction to hike the trail.
The official trail distance is 43.1km but is actually a little longer – around 45.5km. I have used my own measurements below.
Please note that the suggested hiking time each day is moving time only in favourable weather conditions. It does not account for long breaks. The lower number is for fast hikers. The upper number is for slower hikers.
Please keep in mind that rainy weather can greatly impact the condition and difficulty of the North Coast Trail. Allow more time in wet weather and after heavy rain.
| North Coast Trail location | Distance from Shushartie Bay | |
| Shushartie Bay | 50m | |
| Skinner Creek Campground | 8.9km | |
| Nahwitti Creek Campground | 11.4km | |
| Tripod Beach West (after cliffs) | 15.9km | |
| Cape Sutil Campground | 17.4km | |
| Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight) | 25.3km | |
| Laura Creek | 38.3km | |
| Nissen Bight East Campground | 44.2km | |
| Nissen Bight West Campground | 45.5km | |
| Nissen Bight/Nels Bight junction | 47.6km | |
| Nels Bight Campground | 51.4km | |
| Cape Scott Lighthouse | 58.2km | |
| Cape Scott parking lot | 60.5km |
Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek
Distance: 8.9km [BC Parks – 8.1km]
Approximate time: 5 to 7 hours
Difficulty: Challenging
Arrival at Shushartie Bay is by water taxi…directly onto a seaweed-strewn rock beach!
While the surface can be very slippery in places, there are some good footholds too. Be sure to take a few photos with the trailhead sign before getting started.
The North Coast Trail begins with a very long stretch of forest trail with lots of technical terrain (careful steps are required). The ocean cannot be heard or seen for almost the entire 8.9km long distance.
The challenge starts immediately with a rope climb up a steep slope. Welcome to the NCT! Another rope climb reveals several wooden tent pads set in the trees – the Shushartie Bay Campground.
The path passes the food cache and then continues uphill for another 600m, with several more rope climbs. The uneven path features huge roots, rocks and fallen trees.
After gaining 150m of elevation, the route levels out and the scenery starts to open up with shoreline bog forest and long boardwalk stretches. The sections of the trail without boardwalk are very muddy and rooty.
The rest of the journey continues similarly. There are a few more hills, some particularly muddy areas, a couple more ropes and plenty of obstacles. Prepare to squat, lunge and climb over many trees and stumps.
There aren’t many good places to stop for a break on this stretch. We aimed for the marked halfway point, which is located on a long boardwalk section (4.7km from Shushartie Bay).
On our hike, the first 1km or so after the halfway point featured some of the worst (and muddiest) conditions. The difficulty then lessened for the remaining distance to Skinner Creek.
Skinner Creek to Nahwitti Creek
Distance: 2.5km [BC Parks – 2.9km]
Approximate time: 1 to 1.5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
The long inland section of the North Coast Trail finishes right above Skinner Creek.
Follow the edge of the river to a huge pile of driftwood (look for flagging) and you’ll soon arrive at beautiful Skinner Beach. The campground is hidden in the trees to the left.
If not stopping here for the night, continue 900m along the beach to the western end. The surface is cobblestones to start and then transitions into gravelly sand.
BC Parks warns that this beach can be impassable at high tides and there is a rough inland trail in that instance.
We walked along Skinner Beach in calm weather during a tide of 3.5m and experienced no issues. More information is in the tides section.
An impassable headland at the end of the beach means that a trip back into the forest is necessary. Luckily, it is only for a short distance (1.2km).
The route starts with a steep rope climb and continues with standard NCT forest terrain – an uneven path, fallen trees to climb/over under, mud, and a few more ropes. Beautiful old-growth trees do provide a good distraction!
The final 500m stretch is on pebbly Nahwitti Beach. The camping area is located at the western end.
Since over half of this short section follows easy beach terrain, it is a relatively fast hike. This means that both Skinner Creek and Nahwitti Creek are good options for camping on day one of a westbound trip.
Nahwitti Creek to Tripod Beach cliffs
Distance: 4.5km [BC Parks – 5km to Cape Sutil]
Approximate time: 1.5 to 2.5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
I have split the next section into two since the first part is significantly easier than the latter.
The hike starts with an easy warm-up through a relatively open forest section along the Nahwitti River. Look out for spawning salmon in the river in August.
The first cable car crossing lies 800m along the path. Keep your fingers and hair away from the cable and pulleys. The landing platform on the other side is very high and there is a long ladder to descend.
The next 800m section through the forest on the other side of the river is glorious, with a flat path and open views. Enjoy it as everything changes after a rock hoppable creek crossing.
The final part of the trail features classic NCT forest terrain with lots of tree roots, mud pools, a few ropes, slippery rocks and fallen trees. There is one larger creek crossing with a rope but no boardwalks.
The final approach to Tripod Beach involves a long descent on a series of stairs and short ladders, all of which are in decent condition. The stairs all have bannisters, which seems quite luxurious!
Tripod Beach is 200m long and consists of many small pebbles. The cliffs near the west side of the beach are impassable when the tide is above 2.3-2.4m* Be sure to explore the caves and rock columns (the ‘tripod’) as you head towards the beach exit buoys.
*This measurement is based on our observations during our trip. It likely changes from year to year due to coastal erosion.
Tripod Beach to Cape Sutil
Distance: 1.5km
Approximate time: 1 to 2 hours
Difficulty: Very challenging
Tripod Beach to Cape Sutil is the most technically difficult stretch of the trail. It involves numerous climbs and descents of steep rocky headlands, with short forest and pocket beach sections. The first 500m is the most technical.
The steepest areas all have fixed ropes for assistance. The terrain is very rugged and some areas are very muddy as well. There are many places where a fall or slip could result in serious injury.
With this in mind, be careful not to rush this section. I’ve been quite generous regarding the approximate time as there are a lot of variables – weather, group size, comfort with ropes/heights etc.
It may be possible to skip some headlands during low tide – note the ‘high tide’ sign in the photo above. We were hiking at high tide.
We met hikers who enjoyed the rope work. I found some of the rope sections very challenging. Due to erosion, one particular headland obstacle involves a very steep, almost vertical, rappel followed by a very muddy slope (see photo below).
I took my backpack off for several of the rope descents (something that slowed our progress). We spent around 1.5 hours traversing this section and I was glad to make it to Cape Sutil beach and the campground at the far western end.
Cape Sutil to Irony Creek
Distance: 7.9km [BC Parks 7.8km]
Approximate time: 4 to 6 hours
Difficulty: Challenging
This section begins with a 500m long muddy hike across the forested ‘neck’ of Cape Sutil. The good news is that there are some huge old-growth trees to gawk at while navigating the deep mud.
A cobblestone beach awaits on the other side of the neck. This sets the scene for the rest of the hike to Irony Creek – a mix of pocket beaches, rocky headlands and short forest sections.
The start of the hike has quite a few marked high-tide routes. Try to stay on the beach as much as possible as it is generally easier.
Most beach entrances and exits are steep, with the occasional rope to help. Large piles of driftwood often block the way as well.
There are some places where you must leave the beach due to impassable coastal terrain. One of these is found 1.8km from Cape Sutil – the trail leads into the forest for a relatively long 700m section.
For the most part, the pocket beaches are 50-400m long, with the headland and forest stretches ranging from 50m to 600m.
The beaches are a mix of sand and cobblestone, with the latter being quite sloped and more difficult to walk at high tide.
There are other obstacles at high tide as well – more driftwood piles, deep seaweed, huge fallen trees and the occasional rocky headland. The latter can be very slippery.
5km after leaving Cape Sutil, the route transitions almost completely to beach hiking, save for just a few very short (less than 100m) forest sections.
This is a wonderful stretch to explore and one of the reasons why this was my favourite day on the NCT.
Irony Creek, just before the camping area on the eastern side of Shuttleworth Bight, may be rock hoppable when water levels are low (though the rocks are pretty slippery). I crossed in my sandals instead as the water was shin-deep.
Irony Creek to Laura Creek
Distance: 13km [BC Parks 11.8km]
Approximate time: 4 to 7 hours
Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
Enjoy the straightforward start to this section – a long 1.5km walk along gorgeous Shuttleworth Bight. It’s even better (and easier) at low tide. Don’t miss the exit point about four-fifths of the way down the beach.
The 650m stretch through the forest to the Stranby River cable car is wonderfully flat.
The other side is flat for a little while, before becoming increasingly muddy and rooty. It’s not nearly as difficult as earlier forest sections, however. For one thing, there are no ropes!
1.6km after the cable car and the trail finally reaches the beach again. And there it mostly remains for the rest of the distance to Laura Creek, save for a few short detours into the forest.
The beaches alternate between sand and cobblestones, with the latter providing the biggest challenge. This is especially true at high tide when the remaining area is steeply sloped and scattered with driftwood. Look for boot beaten trail high up on the bank.
On a clear day, this section of trail offers some remarkable views of snow-capped mountains on BC’s mainland.
There is also a particularly high chance of seeing black bears – we had two positive encounters on the beach. We also saw a few more around Laura Creek.
Closer to Laura Creek, the cobblestone beach becomes very narrow at high tide – expect additional obstacles due to this. We had to time it right to avoid getting our feet wet.
Laura Creek is usually rock hoppable during the summer months but it can flood after heavy rain. The Laura Creek campground has two sections – a sandy area around the creek and forest tent pads 200m further down the beach.
Laura Creek to Nissen Bight West
Distance: 7.2km [BC Parks – 7.5km]
Approximate time: 2 to 4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Beyond Laura Creek, the remaining 1.3km length of the beach is similar to the approach – very narrow and steep at high tide. It is a lot easier to hike at low tide and more interesting too, since many rockpools are visible.
The exit point is at the western end of the beach. The route dives into the forest for the last time on the North Coast Trail.
But it is a long 5km stretch, one that traverses around the Nahwitti Cone (183m).
Mossy stairs lead up into the trees, the start of a gradual and meandering climb. The path is very muddy and rooty, though well-maintained boardwalks provide relief.
The trail crosses Dakota Creek several times – the first major crossing has a tree bridge while the other requires some rock hopping and careful manoeuvring around a giant tree.
The approach to Laughing Loon Lake involves gloriously long stretches of boardwalk. This continues along the shores of the marshy lake and just beyond.
And then it gets muddy again, very muddy in places. The top of Nahwitti Cone can be spotted through the spindly lodgepole pine trees. Look out also for the remains of the old settler’s road, indicated by the horizontal corduroy logs.
400m from the beach, the roar of the ocean is finally audible.
The trail descends sharply with the help of some mossy stairs and arrives just behind Nissen Bight’s new camping area (east campground).
Stay the night or continue along the spectacular white sand beach for another 1.3km. The North Coast Trail officially finishes at the western end of Nissen Bight. There is another camping area on this side.
Nissen Bight West to Cape Scott parking lot
Distance: 15km [BC Parks – 15km]
Approximate time: 4 to 6 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
A very straight and mostly flat trail leads into the forest from Nissen Bight. This path feels like a hiking highway compared to the North Coast Trail!
After a few minutes, there is a trail junction – turn right for Fisherman Bay, another water taxi pick-up/drop-off location.
At the 2.1km mark (30 minutes or so), the trail arrives at the Nissen Bight/Nels Bight junction. Continue straight for the Cape Scott parking lot. Turn right for Nels Bight.
Just a little south beyond this main junction is a short side trail; it leads to the early 20th-century gravestone of William Christiansen, the son of a local school teacher.
For a detailed breakdown of the rest of the journey, head to our Cape Scott Trail guide.
After tackling the NCT, this part of the hike will be pretty straightforward. It has a small amount of elevation gain, several very muddy sections, plenty of flat/boardwalk stretches and lots of lovely old-growth forest.
There are several campgrounds located on the route – Fisherman River (5.7km from Nissen Bight) and Eric Lake (12km from Nissen Bight).
Cape Scott Trail extension – Nissen Bight to Nels Bight
Distance: 5.9km
Approximate time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy
North Coast Trail hikers wanting to explore more of Cape Scott Provincial Park should turn left at the Nissen Bight/Nels Bight junction, 2.1km after leaving Nissen Bight.
The trail to Nels Bight also follows an old settler’s road and is, for the most part, very flat and wide.
Some sections can be muddy but nothing as bad as the NCT. There are some boardwalks as well. Keep an eye out for historical artifacts.
The route is almost completely forested with one exception – Hansen Meadows. This wide-open area is quite a surprise after hours of hiking amid old-growth trees.
Once tidal flats, the land was drained using dykes to transform it into farmland.
The old fence posts that still stand serve as a testament to the early 20th-century settlers’ determination to make the land agriculturally productive.
After another stretch through some old-growth forest, the trail turns and reveals the entrance to the spectacular sandy beach at Nels Bight. Camp here or continue to the quieter Guise Bay (additional 3.9km).
Cape Scott Trail extension – Nels Bight to Cape Scott Lighthouse
Distance: 13.6km return day hike
Approximate time: 4 to 5 hours
Difficulty: Easy
A very popular side adventure while camping at Nels Bight is the 13.6km day hike to the Cape Scott Lighthouse, perched close to the northwestern tip of Vancouver Island.
The trail begins at the western edge of Nels Bight and travels slightly uphill through the forest to beautiful Experiment Bight. Some parts are very muddy.
Returning to the forest, the route continues to Guise Bay, another scenic sandy beach.
A more challenging alternative option is to continue to the western end of Experiment Bight on the coast.
There are some narrow high tide routes over the rocky headlands. Cross the sand dunes to Guise Bay to rejoin the main trail.
An old military road leads from the northern end of Guise Bay to Cape Scott. The path is very wide and often covered with mossy planks. Follow the main path (don’t turn off) and you’ll soon arrive at the red-and-white lighthouse complex.
There are a few benches outside of the squat lighthouse. Climb the ladder to the viewing platform for a view!
Fresh water is available from a tap at the back of one of the buildings – if you don’t spot it, one of the two lighthouse keepers will direct you.
Cape Scott Trail extension – Nels Bight to Cape Scott parking lot
Distance: 16.8km
Approximate time: 5 to 7 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
To start your journey to the Cape Scott parking lot, hike back to the Nissen/Nels Bight junction (3.9km, 1 to 1.5 hours).
For a detailed breakdown of the rest of the journey, head to our Cape Scott Trail guide.
As mentioned earlier, North Coast Trail hikers will likely find this section of the hike to be pretty easy. This is especially true after periods of very dry weather as the trail will have very little mud.
Expect the hike to take a little longer in the wetter months. The muddiest sections are usually found in the wide, boggy areas north of Fisherman River and then south of Eric Lake.
San Josef Bay extension from Cape Scott parking lot
Distance: 2.5km (2.1km from parking lot/Cape Scott trail junction)
Approximate time: 45 minutes to 1 hour
Difficulty: Very easy
It is well worth making the short detour to San Josef Bay when exiting (or starting) from the Cape Scott parking lot.
While the park is host to plenty of beautiful beaches, San Josef has something the others do not – a collection of impressive sea stacks on the western side of the first beach.
These rock columns rise tall from the sand and are topped with small, almost bonsai-like, trees.
The beach is an attraction in its own right – gorgeous soft white sand with sweeping views of the ocean and surrounding hills. There are caves to explore next to the sea stacks too.
The trail to San Josef Bay is wheelchair accessible and therefore very fast to walk. It can get quite flooded during heavy rain, however. The path passes some impressive old-growth trees.
Many North Coast Trail hikers choose to stay overnight at San Josef Bay as it is convenient for the 12.30pm shuttle bus pick-up. There are two beach camping areas.
North Coast Trail Campgrounds
There are seven designated camping areas on the North Coast Trail. All operate on a first-come, first-serve basis with no reservations.
A camping permit is required – $10/per person/per night. More information is in our other North Coast Trail guide.
Wild camping is technically allowed, with ‘Wolftrack Beach‘ being one of the more popular options (7km west of Irony Creek). Leave No Trace principles must be carefully followed, with food hung away from animals and waste properly disposed of.
Some quick North Coast Trail beach camping tips:
- Be sure to select a camp spot above the high tide line. This will ensure that you don’t wake up underwater in the middle of the night! Before setting up your tent, look for a line of debris, seaweed or driftwood along the shore (camp well above it!) and consult your tide table
- Shelter, from rain or wind, is limited when camping on the beach. Driftwood fences can provide a small barrier. Keep in mind though that mice sometimes live in piles of driftwood.
- Sand and small rocks are inevitable annoyances of beach camping, especially on damp days. Be extra careful to dust off feet, shoes and gear before moving into the tent.
- If you have a semi-freestanding tent, you may find it more difficult to put it up on some of the sandy beaches. Prepare to utilise rocks and driftwood.
- Some of the campgrounds are more obvious than others. Multiple buoys in the trees and driftwood sculptures are the most common signifiers, if there are not already tents set up in the area. Each campground has an information kiosk near the cache and outhouse
- Campfires are often banned during the dry months. The North Coast Trail is located in the Coastal Fire Centre. Check for a fire ban before heading out on your hike
Shushartie Bay Campground
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: 100m
Facilities: Outhouse, information kiosk, fridge-style metal food cache, three wooden tent pads (no water source)
Situated in a dark forest just above the Shushartie Bay trailhead, this campground likely doesn’t see a lot of use. It features three wooden tent pads, an outhouse and a metal food cache.
It is important to note that there is no water source at Shushartie Bay so hikers must hike in with enough water for the night.
And keep in mind that while the trail from Skinner Creek is very wet and boggy, there aren’t any good places to gather water along it.
Skinner Creek Campground
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: 8.9km
Facilities: Small creek water source, outhouse, information kiosk, fridge-style metal food cache
Skinner Beach is a welcome sight after traversing the North Coast Trail’s longest forest section. The 800m long sandy beach is flat and wide, with plenty of space for tents. It seems to be a favourite of seabirds, so expect some company!
The camping area is on the eastern side of the beach, close to the creek – look for a prominent tree with buoys on it. Continue past the tree to find the easiest access from the beach.
In the forest, there is a large metal food cache next to a map kiosk. The outhouse is set a little further back into the trees, past a few small, open flat areas.
Most hikers camp on the spacious beach but there are a few potential forest spots as well. The latter wouldn’t be very private since the forest area is pretty compact.
In mid-August, the creek was small but running well. This was shortly after a day of heavy rain; I believe it usually dries up in late summer and becomes quite puddle-like.
Nahwitti Creek Campground
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: 11.4km
Distance from previous campground: 2.5km
Facilities: Large river water source (700m return), information kiosk, three wooden tent pads, outhouse, fridge-like metal food cache
Nahwitti Creek Campground is situated at the western end of a 500m long pebble beach, close to the estuary. The latter means that it is a hotspot for wildlife. We saw sea otters and a black bear; whales are also regularly seen.
Three very damp tent pads sit in the muggy forest behind the beach, surrounded by tall old-growth trees displaying impressive burls (bulbous growths). The outhouse is located close by.
The beach is slightly sloped but there is space for quite a few tents. The large sandy area in front of the campground’s forest entrance is most regularly used.
Collecting water at Nahwitti Creek is a bit of a pain – the best access point is 350m further up the trail, past the fridge-like food cache and towards the cable car.
Look for pink flagging in the trees and then head onto the pebble beach next to the creek. The water is too brackish (salty) anywhere before this.
The good news is that Nahwitti Creek is a very reliable water source. It’s also a spawning location for salmon, starting in mid-August.
Cape Sutil Campground
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: 17.4km
Distance from previous campground: 6km
Facilities: Small water source, information kiosk, outhouse, two fridge-like metal food caches
Cape Sutil is Vancouver Island’s most northerly point and is part of the Nahwitti First Nations Reserve. A village and trading site was once located here.
Access to the Cape is prohibited, so the campground is situated on a 500m long sandy beach a little further south. It is a good place to take an overnight break along one of the more challenging sections of the trail.
The main camping area is found at the western edge of the beach. There is a lot of flat space here, with some shelter from the trees.
The outhouse and main food cache are hidden in the forest right at the end, along the continuation of the trail. Don’t head up the rocks on the flagged path – this is the access route for the Cape Sutil water taxi drop-off.
There is a Park Ranger’s yurt in the forest behind the most popular spot for tenting. There may or may not be staff there, but hikers cannot use the yurt either way.
The water source is a little tricky to find at Cape Sutil. There is a signed pool of water in the forest about 300m south of the Rangers’ Yurt. A collection of buoys marks the spot. There is a second metal food cache in this area too, but no outhouse.
Irony Creek Campground (Shuttleworth Bight)
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: 25.3km
Distance from previous campground: 7.9km
Facilities: Medium size water source, information kiosk, outhouse, fridge-like metal food cache, four wooden tent pads
In my view, Irony Creek is a ‘must stay’ campground on the North Coast Trail.
Situated on the 2km long Shuttleworth Bight, this expansive stretch of sand offers impressive sunsets and beautiful panoramic ocean views.
Arriving at high tide, we didn’t initially think much of Irony Creek. But all became clear as the tide continued to fall…and fall.
As the water disappeared, the beach became truly spectacular!
The campground area is, as you may guess, situated on the eastern side of the beach, next to Irony Creek itself. The tannin-toned river was wide and shin-deep during our August visit – I took off my hikers to cross it.
A multitude of colourful buoys leads into the forest and reveals a fridge-style metal food cache, four tent pads (three of which are quite close together) and an outhouse.
This beach has a lot of driftwood and the tide comes close to the trees at the eastern end. Be very careful when setting up a tent. I’ve heard of people getting flooded in the middle of the night.
There are only 4-5 good spots in front of the forest entrance. Head further west (150-250m) to find many better options.
Laura Creek Campground
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: 38.3km
Distance from previous campground: 13km
Facilities: Medium size water source, information kiosk, outhouse, fridge-like metal food cache, four wooden tent pads
Located on a narrow pebble beach lined by rockpools, Laura Creek is a campground of two parts.
During regular tides, there is space for around 5-6 small tents on the sand immediately west of the cold creek, with room for a couple more on the eastern side.
Be very careful to check your tide table and locate the high tide line before setting up. The ocean comes up close to the forest here.
The secondary camping area and facilities are found 350m to the west of the creek.
There are four wooden tent pads in the forest, two of which are very closely clustered together and right in the middle of the walkway, next to the food cache.
The remaining tent pads are a little more private and are open to the elements. The outhouse is a short walk away.
If watching wildlife is on your wish list, Laura Creek Campground is the place to go. It has a lot of black bear activity – we watched bears hunt for food in the seaweed and rockpools four times during our overnight stay.
As noted above, there are not many camping options at Laura Creek. Besides the sandy area by the creek, there are no other suitable places to set up a tent. The pebble beach is very small at high tide and has a steep slope.
If you are hiking the North Coast Trail in a large group (four or more tents), I would recommend planning to stay elsewhere. This benefits both your group and other hikers. Laura Creek is the only campground with this issue.
Nissen Bight Campgrounds
Distance from Shushartie Bay trailhead: East – 42.2km, West – 45.5km
Distance from previous campground: East – 5.9km, West – 7.2km
Facilities: Water source at east end, information kiosk, two camping areas with a total of two outhouses and four chest metal food caches
Featuring a long crescent of soft, golden sand and rocky headlands, Nissen Bight is a truly gorgeous beach.
In my opinion, Nissen Bight competes with Shuttleworth Bight as the best beach on the entire North Coast Trail.
Nissen Bight’s beauty isn’t the only special aspect of this beach. It also marks the end of the North Coast Trail! This is a wonderful place to relax, celebrate and reflect.
As of 2024, Nissen Bight has two camping areas – one at either end of the beach. There is beach camping only (no forest tent pads).
The camping area at the eastern end is very new and features a urine diversion outhouse (with a conveyor belt!) alongside a couple of chest-style metal food caches. It has a water source too, accessed behind the outhouse.
At the far western end of the beach is the older campground. It has a ‘normal’ outhouse and two chest-style metal food caches.
Cape Scott campgrounds
There are five other established camping areas in Cape Scott Provincial Park. Many North Coast Trail hikers also choose to extend their trip with a stay at one or more of these campgrounds.
San Josef Bay
Distance from the Cape Scott parking lot: 2.5km
Highlights: Sea stacks, two sandy beaches
Facilities: Beach camping, 5+ urine diversion outhouses, 8+ food caches, creek water source on second beach (easily accessible at low tide, difficult trail at high tide)
Eric Lake
Distance from the Cape Scott parking lot: 3km
Highlights: Old growth forest, lake access
Facilities: 11 wooden tent platforms in forest, outhouse, food cache, lake water source
Fisherman River
Distance from the Cape Scott parking lot: 9.2km
Highlights: River, convenient location
Facilities: 2 wooden tent platforms in dark forest, outhouse, river water source
Nels Bight
Distance from the Cape Scott parking lot: 16.8km
Highlights: 2km long sandy beach, sunset facing, 13.6km day hike to lighthouse
Facilities: Beach camping, 4 urine diversion outhouses, 9 food caches, creek water source
Guise Bay
Distance from the Cape Scott parking lot: 20.7km
Highlights: Long sandy beach, quieter than Nels Bight, close to lighthouse
Facilities: Beach camping, urine diversion outhouse, food cache, creek water source (can dry up)
North Coast Trail Itineraries
There are so many ways to structure a North Coast Trail hike. Most NCT hikers spend 3-5 days on the trail, with 4 days being the average.
Below, I’ve shared the most popular hiking itineraries. But don’t feel constrained by them! We met quite a few hikers on more ‘unusual’ schedules.
The first five itineraries all involve a return water taxi trip with a drop-off at Shushartie Bay and pick-up at Fisherman Bay (just west of Nissen Bight).
Please note that both services require a minimum number of hikers and operate subject to weather conditions.
Planning to hike out and return to Port Hardy via the shuttle bus instead? I have suggested multiple itineraries with that in mind too.
Don’t want to use the water taxi or shuttle bus service at all? Check out these yo-yo (out and back) itineraries.
Itinerary considerations
When planning your trip, keep in mind the following:
- Shuttle times/minimums – The North Coast Trail shuttle schedule is set by the company, not by hikers. Both water taxi and bus shuttles have minimum hiker numbers.
- Desired route/shuttle – Will you take a return water taxi? Arrive by water taxi and depart by bus? Use your own vehicle?
- Daylight – Less light in April and September, much more in June
- Tides – Tripod Beach tidal problem, expect slower progress on beach sections when the tide is high.
- Difficulty – Shushartie Bay to Cape Sutil is the hardest section of the trail and will take longer to hike.
- Trail condition – The earlier, and later, in the season, the more mud that will be present (slower progress).
- Trail maintenance. Most maintenance is completed by mid to late summer. Before this, expect overgrown foliage, more fallen trees, potenitally damaged infrastructure
- Weather – Heavy rain is more likely during shoulder season months (slower progress).
- Group ability – Prepare to hike at the speed of the slowest member of your group.
- Group size – All the campgrounds have plenty of space, with the exception of Laura Creek. Group of 6+? Consider avoiding it.
Standard 4 day North Coast Trail itinerary with return water taxi
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Irony Creek – 13.9km, 6.5 to 10.5 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 4: Laura Creek to Nissen Bight – 7.2km, 2 to 4 hours
This is one of the most commonly followed North Coast Trail itineraries, with the most challenging terrain tackled over two days.
Being only 2km apart, Skinner Creek and Nahwitti Creek are relatively interchangeable in this itinerary. Outside of the drier summer months, Skinner Creek may be the safer destination for night 1.
Alternative 4 day North Coast Trail itinerary with return water taxi (easier)
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek OR Nahwitti Creek – 8.9km/11.4km, 5 to 7 hours/6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Skinner Creek OR Nahwitti Creek to Cape Sutil – 8.5km/6km, 3.5 to 6 hours/2.5 to 4.5 hours
- Day 3: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 4: Irony Creek to Nissen Bight – 20.2km, 6 to 11 hours
In my opinion, this 4 day North Coast Trail itinerary is easier than the standard one. The most difficult terrain is covered over three days rather than two.
The Irony Creek to Nissen Bight stretch will require a longer day on the trail but the terrain is easier than earlier sections. There is no shortage of camping spots at Nissen Bight, so a late arrival isn’t a worry either.
I have suggested stopping at either Skinner Creek or Nahwitti Creek on the first night – make your decision based on tides (Cape Sutil on day 2), group fitness and weather conditions.
5 day North Coast Trail itinerary with return water taxi
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek OR Nahwitti Creek – 8.9km/ 11.4km, 5 to 7 hours/6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Skinner Creek OR Nahwitti Creek to Cape Sutil – 8.5km/6km, 3.5 to 6 hours/2.5 to 4.5 hours
- Day 3: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 4: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 7 hours
- Day 5: Laura Creek to Nissen Bight – 7.2km, 2 to 4 hours
Spending an extra day on the North Coast Trail is well worth it. This 5 day itinerary covers the most difficult terrain in three days but still provides plenty of time to explore the easier sections too.
While Laura Creek Campground is usually quite crowded, it is also great for bear-watching. If you’re interested in hiking the Cape Scott Trail as well, consider heading to Nels Bight on day 5 as the Laura Creek to Nissen Bight section is short.
Again, make your choice between Skinner Creek or Nahwitti Creek based on tides (Tripod Beach on day 2), group fitness and weather conditions.
We stayed at Nahwitti Creek on our first night as we were facing a rising tide while hiking to Tripod Beach the next day.
3 day North Coast Trail itinerary with return water taxi
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Irony Creek – 13.9km, 6.5 to 10.5 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Nissen Bight – 20.2km, 6 to 11 hours
Fit, experienced coastal hikers may enjoy the challenge of this short NCT itinerary. Be prepared to be on the trail for most of the day, potentially getting into camp late.
Unless prepared and confident, I would caution against this itinerary during the wetter months when travelling the trail is more difficult and hazardous.
Shortened 3 day North Coast Trail itinerary with return water taxi (easiest option)
- Day 1: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 2: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 7 hours
- Day 3: Laura Creek to Nissen Bight – 7.2km, 2 to 4 hours
If you don’t like the sound of the Shushartie Bay to Cape Sutil section of the NCT, there is the option to completely skip it.
The North Coast Trail Shuttle offers a water-taxi service to Cape Sutil in addition to Shushartie Bay. Of course, you’ll be missing a significant section of the official trail.
If you’re interested in what the rest of the route looks like, you could always camp at Cape Sutil for a night and day hike back to Nahwitti Creek. The trail would be a lot easier without a heavy backpack.
5 day North Coast Trail / Cape Scott Trail combination
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Irony Creek – 13.9km, 6.5 to 10.5 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 7 hours
- Day 4: Laura Creek to Nissen Bight – 7.2km, 2 to 4 hours
- Day 5: Nissen Bight to Cape Scott parking lot – 15km, 4 to 6 hours
This is a popular North Coast Trail focused itinerary that includes a water taxi drop-off and bus shuttle pick-up.
The NCT portion follows the standard 4 day schedule, with the distance fairly evenly divided.
The final day is a straightforward hike out along the Cape Scott Trail. An early morning start is required to reach the bus on time (7-7.30am for most hikers).
6 day North Coast Trail / Cape Scott Trail combination
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Irony Creek – 13.9km, 6.5 to 10.5 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Nissen Bight – 20.2km, 6 to 11 hours
- Day 4: Nissen Bight to Nels Bight + optional day hike to Cape Scott Lighthouse – 5.9km, 2 hours + 13.6km, 4 to 5 hours
- Day 5: Nels Bight to San Josef Bay – 18km, 5.5 to 7.5 hours
- Day 6: San Josef Bay to Cape Scott parking lot – 2.5km, 1 hour
Experienced hikers on a time crunch may find this itinerary worthwhile. It includes all of the major attractions in the park, including the NCT, Cape Scott and San Josef Bay.
Keep in mind that this schedule will be significantly more difficult during the wetter months.
With an early start on day 4, it may still be possible to day hike to the Cape Scott Lighthouse the same day. An alternative idea would be to stay at Guise Bay instead of Nels Bight.
Alternatively, try to fit in the lighthouse hike the next day before hiking to Eric Lake or San Josef Bay. Of the two, I’d recommend San Josef for the views and sea stacks. This beach does involve more hiking to reach, however.
7 day North Coast Trail / Cape Scott Trail combination
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Irony Creek – 13.9km, 6.5 to 10.5 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 7 hours
- Day 4: Laura Creek to Nissen Bight – 7.2km, 2 to 4 hours
- Day 5: Nissen Bight to Nels Bight + afternoon day hike to Cape Scott Lighthouse – 5.9km, 2 hours + 13.6km, 4 to 5 hours
- Day 6: Nels Bight to San Josef Bay – 18km, 5.5 to 7.5 hours
- Day 7: San Josef Bay to Cape Scott parking lot – 2.5km, 1 hour
This is a more approachable itinerary for hiking the North Coast Trail and Cape Scott Trail. It involves a water taxi drop-off at Shushartie Bay and a bus pick-up in the Cape Scott parking lot.
This schedule includes a night at San Josef Bay to align with the early shuttle bus departure from the parking lot. Otherwise, an early start from Nels Bight is required to reach the parking lot on time.
8 day North Coast Trail / Cape Scott Trail combination
- Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Cape Sutil – 6km, 2.5 to 4.5 hours
- Day 3: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 4: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 7 hours
- Day 5: Laura Creek to Nels Bight – 11.1km, 3 to 5.5 hours
- Day 6: Optional day hike to Cape Scott Lighthouse – 13.6km, 4 to 5 hours
- Day 7: Nels Bight to San Josef Bay – 18km, 5.5 to 7.5 hours
- Day 8: San Josef Bay to Cape Scott parking lot – 2.5km, 1hour
This is an extended version of the above NCT/CST itinerary. This is the exact itinerary we followed on our trip in August 2024. I would recommend it but with some caveats.
The most difficult part of the trail is divided into three days with this itinerary. We think this made the hiking experience significantly easier.
We were, however, carrying an extra day of food. Some people would prefer a quicker schedule to avoid that as food weight can really add up!
Since we had good weather, our group enjoyed the two-night stay at Nels Bight. In bad weather, I can understand not wanting to do that.
One way to remove a night from this trip would be to continue to Nissen Bight on day 4 instead of stopping at Laura Creek. We were unable to do this as the tides were not in our favour.
We experienced mid-afternoon high tides, which meant we had to deal with steeper beaches and many more obstacles on the coastal sections. I think we would have had the time and energy to push ahead otherwise.
Following that alternative plan, we would have hiked to Nels Bight in the morning and potentially visited Cape Scott Lighthouse that same afternoon.
6 day shortened North Coast Trail yo-yo (no shuttles)
- Day 1: Cape Scott parking lot to Nissen Bight – 15km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 2: Nissen Bight to Irony Creek – 20.2km, 6 to 11 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Cape Sutil (could be a day hike) – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 4: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 5: Irony Creek to Laura Creek – 13km, 4 to 7 hours
- Day 6: Laura Creek to Cape Scott parking lot – 22.2km, 6 to 10 hours
Whether you don’t want to spend the money or just dislike boats, it is still possible to hike the North Coast Trail without using the water taxi service.
This 6 day yo-yo itinerary takes in most of the trail and campgrounds, skipping the most difficult parts.
8 day North Coast Trail yo-yo (no shuttles)
- Day 1: Cape Scott parking lot to Nissen Bight – 15km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 2: Nissen Bight to Irony Creek – 20.2km, 6 to 11 hours
- Day 3: Irony Creek to Nahwitti Creek – 13.9km, 6.5 to 10,5 hours
- Day 4: Nahwitti Creek to Shushartie Bay – 11.4km, 6 to 8.5 hours
- Day 5: Shushartie Bay to Skinner Creek – 8.9km, 5 to 7 hours
- Day 6: Skinner Creek to Cape Sutil – 8.5km, 3.5 to 6 hours
- Day 7: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek – 7.9km, 4 to 6 hours
- Day 8: Irony Creek to Nissen Bight – 10.2km, 6 to 11 hours
- Day 9: Nissen Bight to Cape Scott parking lot – 15km, 4 to 6 hours
This extended yo-yo itinerary encompasses the entire North Coast Trail.
While this is not a routing I would personally want to do (I’m content to have hiked Shushartie Bay to Skinner just once!), it is an option for hikers who don’t want to use the water taxi.
Keep in mind that there is no water source at Shushartie Bay so you must bring enough water for the night (and potentially the hike back, depending on the time of year).
Other Vancouver Island hiking and travel guides you may find helpful:
Juan de Fuca Trail
Della Falls Trail
Nootka Trail
West Coast Trail
Campbell River to Port Hardy Road Trip Guide
Nanaimo to Campbell River Road Trip Guide
Pacific Marine Circle Route Road Trip Guide
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One half of the Canadian/British couple behind Off Track Travel, Gemma is happiest when hiking on the trail or planning the next big travel adventure. JR and Gemma are currently based in the beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada