Larger than life human figures appeared to fly across the ceiling of the cave, as if trying to escape.
Arms outstretched and feet set wide apart, these ‘mono’ paintings range in pigment from deep red and yellow to black and even white, some with stripes, others with arrows. Set amongst the 80 figures are recognisable representations of turtles, deer and birds.
We’d spent hours on a bumpy dirt road to get here, followed by a hot, uphill hike through a canyon. Upon seeing that cave entrance, however, it was worth every minute.
This is the centrepiece panel of the San Borjitas Cave Paintings in Baja California Sur, Mexico.
Part of a larger UNESCO World Heritage Site, these pictographs are around 7,500 years old. With that in mind, the San Borjitas Cave Paintings are believed to be the oldest discovered on the continent.
As evidenced by the name of this site, JR and I love exploring beyond the beaten path. Only accessible with a guide via an unpaved road, the San Borjitas Cave is the epitome of a tucked away treasure.
It’s worth the effort to reach for many reasons – the size of the main mural, the bright colours, the relative complexity of the design.
The atmosphere of this remote place is also unmatched. To view such ancient pictographs, seemingly untouched by time, in this isolated setting is a special experience.
I never imagined I’d see something like this on my first trip to Mexico!
In this post, I’ll share more about the San Borjitas Cave Paintings, all the essential details you need to know to go (how to book a tour, what to expect) plus ideas for other things to do in the area, where to stay and the best places to eat.
We visited the San Borjitas Cave Paintings as part of a hosted trip with Visit Baja California Sur and Loreto BCS Tourism.
The San Borjitas Cave Paintings
The mountainous spine of the Baja California region of Mexico is home to many ancient murals – lasting traces of the Indigenous communities that lived and travelled this land for millennia.
The dry climate and relative inaccessibility has ensured that the artwork has been well preserved.
Jesuit missionaries provide the first written records of these pictographs (paintings) and petroglyphs (carvings) in the early/mid 18th century.
In the case of the San Borjitas cave near Mulegé, the missionaries were advised by the local Cochimí people that the murals pre-dated even their arrival.
With the main painting being located 5 to 8 metres from the ground, the Cochimí told the missionaries that it may have been the work of giants.
Some scientists have theorised that the Cochimí denied creating the artwork to keep their Indigenous culture sacred. Through carbon dating, we know that the paintings are around 7500 years old.
There are 80 human-like figures (anthropomorph or ‘monos’) on the ceiling of the San Borjitas cave. Some are outlined, others are rounded, many overlap. They are decorated with stripes, a checkerboard pattern and dots. Most seem to be male. The main panel is about 15 metres wide.
According to our guide, the designs would have been created using fingers, feathers and/or deer tail brushes.
As for the paint, it is likely to have been mixed from a local mineral, possibly a volcanic deposit of some kind, that was ground down and brought to the cave in dust form.
To the left hand side of the cave is a wall covered in carvings, thought to be a representation of vulva (yes, as in genitals). We saw more of these on rocks next to the road as well.
Of course, the meaning the prehistoric art in the cave is unknown to anyone but the artists themselves. Possible explanations include ceremonialism, religious communciation, fertility rituals, vision quest symbolism or hunting/fishing practices.
Reaching the San Borjitas Cave
To access the San Borjitas cave, a fair effort is required. Fair from being a negative, this has enabled the paintings to remain in such good condition.
Mulegé to Rancho Las Tinajas
The adventure starts in the small city of Mulegé in Baja California Sur. The first (and most comfortable) part of the drive is on Highway 1. The turn-off to San Borjitas is 21km north of Mulegé.
Since we had our own vehicle, we stopped in the small community of Palo Verde to pick up our guide. We also signed the first visitor log book.
And then comes the bumpy part of the journey. The 30km (18 mile) long road to reach the caves is unpaved, a mix of gravel, sand, dirt and rock.
The route crosses a riverbed quite a few times, sometimes with shallow water, other times dry.
It took us around 2 hours with a stop for breakfast next to the river. We also checked out some rock petroglyphs, took in the desert views and looked for lizards.
At the end of the road sits Rancho Las Tinajas. The family also owns the land where the San Borjitas cave is located.
We signed a second log book and swapped vehicles. Our tour bus was apparently not suitable the final part of the expedition!
Rancho Las Tinajas to the San Borjitas Cave
Backtracking 1.5km from Rancho Las Tinajas to reach a side road, our guide opened two locked gates. The final 4km of the drive was indeed more gnarly than the first part, with some short, steep sections and loose rock.
A group of cows welcomed us in the parking area, from which we started the hike.
One of our guides, Victor, advised us to watch out for arrow poison plant (hierba de la fleche), a large shrub with toxic sap. Indigenous people used the sap to coat arrows for hunting.
I was impressed by the views from the canyon hike – steep cliffs, tall cacti, huge white tree roots and turquoise coloured pools.
At the top of the final hill, signs advise against campfires and eating. Just beyond, the broad cave entrance awaits. I’d recommend spending at least an hour taking it all in.
The return journey to Mulegé is via the same route, minus the stop at Rancho Las Tinajas if you don’t need to drop off a guide or vehicle.
Essential information
Inspired to visit the San Borjitas Cave Paintings in Baja California? Here’s what you need to know to go!
Heads up – you can fly to this area direct from Calgary. WestJet flies to Loreto (about two hours drive south of the nearest town to the caves) once a week from October to April. Loreto itself is well worth a visit, expect a dedicated post soon!
How to book a San Borjitas Cave trip
The San Borjitas Cave Paintings can only be visited with a guide. There are several locked gates on the road to the trailhead. No-one but licensed National Institute of Anthropology and History (NIAH) guides have the key.
There are a couple of ways to hire a guide and visit the caves.
Our guide was Everardo Villavicencio. Local to Palo Verde area (north of Mulegé), he can be hired if you have your own vehicle to reach the caves. Contact him via Javier Aguiar at Las Casitas Hotel and Restaurant (more details below).
Salvador Castro is one of the most well known guides. He speaks both English and Spanish. Based in Mulegé, he has his own vehicle and provides day trips for 3000 pesos for 1 or 2 people (around $200). Additional people are 1300 pesos each. The tour includes lunch.
The best way to contact Salvador is via email at mulegetours[at]hotmail.com or WhatsApp (615-161-49-85). He recommends reaching out at least a week in advance of your intended trip date.
To reach Mulegé, hire a car or take the bus from Loreto. The journey takes around 2 hours and is spectacular! There are weekly flights direct to Loreto from Calgary via WestJet from October to April.
What to expect
The return trip to the San Borjitas Cave Paintings takes most of the day. Anticipate 7 to 8 hours, with the majority of time spent in a vehicle on a very bumpy unpaved road.
The hike to the cave takes around 20 minutes. While the trail is only around 700m long, it does have 60m of elevation gain. The narrow path features lots of small ups and downs, plenty of uneven sections and a few short rocky parts too.
Keep in mind that most tours will arrive and leave in the middle of the day. Temperatures in winter and early spring (the busiest season) are usually warm but can also be hot. Luckily, there is some shade on the route.
We spent around an hour in the cave itself, but some tours may spend longer. Photographs are allowed with a permit, usually built into the tour fee. JR and I were allowed to use one camera between us.
There are no facilities in the cave. I spotted a basic outhouse in the trail parking lot, but the best place to go is at Rancho Las Tinajas. The family kindly allow cave visitors to use their washrooms.
Tours usually include lunch. Bring water, a sun hat, sunglasses, an extra layer (in winter) and hiking shoes. If you’re comfortable with uneven surfaces, running/tennis shoes are also OK.
Other things to do in Mulegé
The San Borjitas Cave Paintings aren’t the only reason to visit the Mulegé area!
This laid back community of 3,800 people has such an authentic vibe – there are no big hotels or tourist traps to be found here.
With the river running right through the city, it is, quite literally, an oasis.
The name Mulegé (‘Mool-a-hay’) comes from the Cochimi language meaning “large ravine of the white mouth.”
Officially, it is known as Heroica Mulegé, to honour local residents who successfully repelled American forces during a Mexican-American War battle in 1847.
The Jardin Corona is located in the centre of Mulegé, a beautiful plaza surrounded by restaurants and shops. The walls are adorned with wonderful murals, with more to be found on the surrounding streets.
My favourite is the one on the corner of Romero Rubio, which features the dogs of locals and visitors.
Mulegé is home to the Mission Santa Rosalía, which was constructed in the mid 18th century by Jesuit missionaries.
Located on a hill, the restored stone building has a commanding presence over the city. It is usually open to visitors in the morning.
Behind the mission is the river outlook. Not only does it have an incredible view of river and mountains, but is also an ideal birdwatching spot. We saw many ospreys and vultures here.
Mulegé’s riverside location gives it such a lush, abundant feeling, especially compared to other local Baja towns. See it from a different perspective on a Trajineras boat tour.
These colourful powered boats travel up the river towards the ocean, offering a chance to spot wildlife, mangroves and the lighthouse.
Tours run from 8am to 7pm every day and cost 250 pesos per person (around $17 CAD).
The Museo de Mulegé sits above the city, the remains of an ‘open’ territorial prison that was built in 1907.
The inmates were allowed to leave to work locally each morning and returned at 6pm after a conch shell was sounded. Entry is by donation.
If you can, get up for a sunrise while in Mulegé! It’s wonderful to see the surrounding mountains glow as the sun emerges above the ocean.
Finally, don’t miss taking a photo with the Mulegé sign at the city’s eastern entrance. There’s an impressive arch at the western entrance as well.
Where to stay in Mulegé
We stayed at the Hotel Serenidad (Serenity), which sits just outside of town.
Built in the 1960s with a dedicated airstrip, the hotel was a major development for Mulegé. It attracted fly-in fishermen and several noted celebrities such as John Wayne and Olivia Newton-John.
Today, the Serenidad’s expansive palm shaded grounds are the highlight, with plenty of cosy hang out areas and a huge pool with swim-up bar (note that the margaritas are generously poured).
The river and ocean, with lighthouse views, are just a short walk away.
Closer to town, check out the Historico Las Casitas Hotel. The kind owner, Javier Aguiar, knows everything there is to know about Mulegé (and he knows everyone too). Although we didn’t stay here, Javier was our local guide and accompanied us to the caves.
The well established hotel is 50 years old and has simple, clean rooms opening onto a shaded L-shaped courtyard. Javier also operates the Las Casitas Restaurant (see below), so you can eat and sleep with no hassle!
To reserve a spot at Las Casitas, email Javier lascasitas1962[at]hotmail.com or send a message via WhatsApp/Facebook.
Where to eat in Mulegé
Las Casitas Restaurant is my top pick for lunch and dinner while in town. It delivers both on taste and ambience, with the colourful outside courtyard area twittering with birds and the trickling of a fountain.
The interior is equally bright though balanced with beautiful stone walls and wooden ceilings. It’s a cosy place and certainly has a wonderful local feel.
The food is fresh and flavourful, with soup offered before the main course. We met a couple from La Paz who ate there both nights of their Mulegé trip, which says so much.
I tasted possibly the best ice cream of my life in Mulegé!
Cool Scoops serves incredibly creamy and delicious homemade ice-cream, with flavours ranging from pistachio and espresso to mango and strawberry. I absolutely loved the passionfruit version.
The shop is located just off Mulegé’s main plaza (Jardin Corona), in the new Plaza Santa Lucia.
There is a great taco shop at the end of this food court as well, as well as more options on the other side of the plaza. Don’t miss getting a fish taco while in Baja!
For drinks, consider a trip out to Mulege Brewing Company. This roadside brewery has 11 different craft beers, outdoor seating and a yellow submarine.
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One half of the Canadian/British couple behind Off Track Travel, Gemma is happiest when hiking on the trail or planning the next big travel adventure. JR and Gemma are currently based in the beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. Consider buying us a coffee if you have find any of our guides helpful!