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Cape Scott Trail, Vancouver Island: Complete Hiking Guide

Cape Scott Provincial Park has a reputation for being one of the wettest and muddiest places on Vancouver Island.

It’s also resoundingly remote, being accessible via gravel roads only and a good few hours from a town of reasonable size.

Sandy Nels Bight beach lined with driftwood
Gorgeous Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park

But what should really be the main topic of conversation is the breathtaking beaches, lush rainforest, stunning sunsets, sand dunes and fascinating history that make the Cape Scott Trail so extraordinary. 

Gemma standing on boardwalk looking up at huge tree in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Cape Scott Provincial Park is home to some incredible old growth trees, such as this huge Sitka Spruce
Looking inland on beautiful Nels Bight beach, lined by forest
Stunning Nels Bight beach

Whether you’re looking for a spectacular coastal backpacking trip or a change from alpine hiking, Cape Scott should be your next big adventure.

Keep reading to discover more about this one a kind trail, followed by a comprehensive adventure planning guide. 

Updated April 2021.

Close up of white and red mushroom in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Cape Scott Provincial Park is beautiful from the ground up

Backcountry necessities

Gemma standing at the entrance of Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Arriving at Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park

Challenges and rewards in Cape Scott Provincial Park

Pristine golden sand beaches reaching into the distance. Campsites with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. A canopy of magnificent old growth rainforest. A walk on the remains of a WW2 military road. A tranquil meadow with crumbling fences.

Boardwalk leading into the old growth forest, Cape Scott Provincial Park
The boardwalk in Cape Scott Provincial Park can be very slippery

And at the end of it all, a lighthouse resting at the edge of British Columbia’s wildest coastline. 

The Cape Scott Trail is an unforgettable 47km journey to the northwestern tip of Vancouver Island and back.

Hikers prepared to get their feet wet will find their efforts rewarded in a number of remarkable and unique ways. 

JR with backpack walking along beautiful Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Nels Bight beach is real highlight of the Cape Scott Trail

While there may be no need to ascend any mountain peaks to see Cape Scott’s attractions, the challenges here include slippery boardwalks, lowland bogs, swathes of mud and giant fallen trees.

It’s a different sort of adventure but an exceptionally beautiful one at that. 

Cape Scott Provincial Park is located on the traditional territory of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw and Quatsino First Nation. This article includes affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of these links, I may receive a small percentage of any qualifying sales at no extra cost to you.

Close up of American Robin with orange breast looking away from camera on beach
Cape Scott Provincial Park is full of wildlife – this American Robin was exploring the beach

Nels Bight beach

Cape Scott Provincial Park is host to a number of gorgeous beaches but my favourite has to be Nels Bight.

With 2400m of sweeping golden sand, it’s also the longest beach in the park. Facing northwest, the sunsets are often spectacular. 

Driftwood and giant varieties of seaweed are scattered on the sand, occasionally punctuated by tracks from birds, bears and even wolves. I’ve seen the latter at neighbouring Nissen Bight before, curiously inspecting the sand dunes. 

Looking across the sandy expanse of Nels Bight beach on the Cape Scott Trail
Another view of Nels Bight beach

For both its beauty and length, Nels Bight is the ideal place to base yourself while visiting Cape Scott Provincial Park.

The expansive size allows for the feeling of remoteness to remain even when several groups of hikers are camping on the beach.

From Nels Bight, the Cape Scott Lighthouse is a comfortable day hike away. Nissen Bight, Experiment Bight, Hansen Lagoon and Guise Bay also make for wonderful day trip destinations. 

Close up of colourful buoy at entrance of Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Trail
The colourful entrance of Nels Bight

An earthquake at the edge of the world

Our first trip to Cape Scott was an eventful one. Not only was it our very first multi-day hiking trip but we also experienced a 6.6 magnitude earthquake right on Nels Bight beach. 

Relaxing in our tent after a day hike to the Cape Scott Lighthouse, we were playing Yahtzee when the tent walls started moving. Moving backwards and forwards for about 20 seconds, it felt like we were on a conveyor belt. In my panic, I thought it was a bear shaking the tent!

Gemma standing by the ocean looking out to the waves on Nels Bight beach
Watching the ocean from Nels Bight beach never gets old

Getting out of the tent to look at the Pacific Ocean right in front of us, we suddenly didn’t feel very safe. Our van was a long 17km hike away. 

Luckily, another camping group had joined us on Nels Bight. The father just happened to be the fire chief for Port Alice (coincidentally where the epicenter was) and had a satellite phone at his disposal. We were relieved to hear that there was no tsunami alert issued for the region. 

Another view of the golden sands of Nels Bight beach with the sun sinking below the headland
Sunset on Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park

A Complete Planning Guide to the Cape Scott Trail

Cape Scott Provincial Park is a spectacular destination for a multi day hiking adventure. The Cape Scott Trail is the most popular, leading from the parking lot to the Cape Scott Lighthouse via several stunning beaches. 

Driftwood sculptures on Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Driftwood sculptures are a common sight on Nels Bight beach

In this section, you’ll find everything you need to know to plan your own Cape Scott hiking adventure. Here are some essential points to get you started:

  • Cape Scott Provincial Park is open all year round
  • It is free to visit and hike in Cape Scott Provincial Park
  • Camping fees are $10/per person/per night (more details below) and there is no reservation system
  • Port Hardy is the nearest town for supplies and accommodation, a two hour drive away
  • Cell phone signal is not found anywhere in the park. We lost cell phone signal very shortly after leaving Port Hardy
  • Campfires are allowed when there is no fire ban in place (please note that the Fog Zone no longer has an exemption)
  • Dogs are prohibited in most areas of the park due to high wolf activity
Gemma standing on giant tree bridge on the Cape Scott Trail
This giant tree makes for one of the most impressive bridges in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Calm lake surrounded by forest and reeds, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Eric Lake on the Cape Scott Trail

Trail breakdown

Here’s what to expect on the Cape Scott Trail, from the parking lot all the way to the Cape Scott Lighthouse. 

Close up of mushrooms in Cape Scott Provincial Park
Cape Scott Provincial Park was full of mushrooms on our most recent October hike

Parking lot to Eric Lake (0km to 3km)

The Cape Scott Trail starts sedately, with a wide flat gravel path leading away from the parking lot and into the old growth forest. After less than 600m, there’s a divide. San Josef Bay is an easy 1.7km hike to the left, while the Cape Scott Trail continues on the right. 

The real trail begins! Steps lead onwards and upwards to one of the most difficult parts of the trail. Depending on how much it has rained recently, the next section can feature big swathes of mud as well as slippery boardwalks and rocks. Eric Lake will soon shine through the trees, heralding completion of this tricky part. 

Hiking path made of rounded wooden planks on the Cape Scott Trail
The trail to Eric Lake follows the old corduroy route created in 1908 by Danish settlers

Eric Lake to Nissen Bight junction (3km to 13.1km)

The route around the lake mostly consists of boardwalk as well as an impressive giant tree bridge. Eric Lake campground is pleasant enough for a stop, though can be buggy. After 20 minutes after leaving, the trail passes a huge Sitka Spruce tree. It’s not the only giant tree to look out for. 

Around Fisherman River, the old growth canopy starts to open and the moss dissipates. The landscape transitions to grey pine trees and shrubs and then to marsh and lowland bog. This is the second wettest area, with huge pools of rainwater a given almost all year round. 

This section, the old telegraph route, is host to the biggest concentration of noticeable historical artifacts in the park. Look for rusting saws languishing in the grass and side trails leading to gravesites and building foundations. 

Wooden bridge resting on a log bridge over the Fisherman River, Cape Scott Provincial Park
The bridge over the Fisherman River was recently replaced

Nissen Bight junction to Nels Bight beach (13.1km to 16.8km)

The path splits again with one route to Nels Bight and Cape Scott, the other to Nissen Bight and the North Coast Trail. Turn left for Nels Bight. 

The landscape changes again at Hansen Meadows, where 20th century settlers cleared the land in preparation for farming. Nowadays, it’s a tranquil place with wide open views into the distance. The tall grasses here can be misleadingly damp, so watch your step. 

Back into the forest, the sounds of the ocean soon be heard. You’re teasingly close, but don’t forget to look around at the stunning old growth lining the trail. This flat, easy section of the trail is regularly used by wildlife too – we’ve spotted both wolf and bear tracks. Turn the final corner and colourful buoys will mark your arrival to spectacular Nels Bight beach. 

Gemma standing at the entrance of the open expanse of the grassy Hansen Meadow, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Reaching the open expanse of the Hansen Meadow can be quite a surprise after hours of walking within the forest

Nels Bight beach to Cape Scott Lighthouse (16.8km to 23.6km)

The trail to Cape Scott Lighthouse continues from the southwest end of Nels Bight. It ascends a small hill and continues through the forest until reaching the beautiful sands of Experiment Bight. The route also takes in stunning Guise Bay, complete with sand dunes. 

The final stretch follows an old military road. Mossy planks line the way to the final destination. It’s a bit like entering a small village, with the squat red and white lighthouse being surrounded by numerous buildings. 

Cape Scott Lighthouse is one of the last manned lighthouses in Canada. The lighthouse keeper (one of two) was in a fantastic mood on our visit, probably because he was about to be flown out after a three month stint!

Hikers do not have the same privilege, however, and have to travel out the same way they came – over the military road, along the beaches, over the meadow and through the old growth forest. 

Trail leading into the distance with moss covered planks, remnents of the old military road to the Cape Scott radar station
An old military road leads to the Cape Scott Lighthouse

Trail navigation

From the trailhead parking lot to the Cape Scott Lighthouse, the Cape Scott Trail is a well marked hiking trail. 

  • There are kilometre markers all the way to Nels Bight beach, which helps to keep track of the journey
  • Directional signs clearly indicate where to go and the amount of remaining kilometres at important junctions.
  • There are also a number of information boards offering cultural and historical background at points of interest (such as the Cape Scott settlement site, Hansen Meadows etc)
  • The Cape Scott Trail is well visited throughout the main hiking season (May to September) but is certainly not overcrowded.
  • Park Facility Operators are based at a cabin on Nels Bight beach during the main hiking season. They check camping permits nightly and regularly perform maintenance on the trail
Older wooden Cape Scott Provincial Park signs with distances to Fisherman River, Nissen Bight, Nels Bight, Cape Scott Lighthouse
Navigation on the Cape Scott Trail is easy
Gemma standing on the boardwalk behind Nels Bight beach, with backpack and hiking pole
About to start the hike back to the trailhead from the Cape Scott rangers cabin, Nels Bight beach

Trail condition

As mentioned, the Cape Scott Trail is maintained during the main summer hiking season. But even with this maintenance, hikers should anticipate rugged backcountry conditions. Expect downed trees, broken boardwalk, massive mud pools and more.

The Cape Scott Trail experiences very little elevation gain throughout the 20km distance to the lighthouse. Substantial sections of the trail are flat, with boardwalk being common early on.

A horizontal wooden ladder stretches over a pool of mud on the Cape Scott Trail
The first 1.5-2.5km of the trail is one of the trickiest sections to hike, with huge pools of water and mud

While the trail is not technically difficult, however, hikers must be prepared to have wet feet by the end of it.

If you go into the experience mentally anticipating that, you’ll have a much better time. If the trail happens to be drier than normal and you manage to avoid all of the mud and water pools, then great! 

A huge old growth tree with gnarled bark and huge root system on the Cape Scott Trail
Old growth trees are a common sight throughout the Cape Scott Trail – this one is close to Nels Bight beach


There are a number of established camping areas with facilities in Cape Scott Provincial Park. 

  • San Josef Bay – 2.5km from trailhead, beach camping, outhouse, food cache
  • Eric Lake – 3km from trailhead, 11 wooden tent platforms, outhouse, food cache
  • Fisherman River – 9.2km from trailhead, 2 wooden tent platforms, outhouse
  • Nissen Bight – 15km from trailhead, beach camping, outhouse, food cache
  • Nels Bight – 16.8km from trailhead, beach camping, outhouse, food cache
  • Guise Bay – 20.7km from trailhead, beach camping, outhouse, food cache

Random wilderness camping is allowed but I’d highly recommend sticking to the established areas to reduce damage.

Boardwalk leading to raised tent platforms at Eric Lake campsite
The tent platforms at Eric Lake backcountry campsite

A Rangers Cabin hosts Park Facility Operators (PFOs) from the end of May to mid September.

Outside of this time, the cabin is available on a first come, first serve shared basis to hikers*. It has a wood stove, two bedrooms with bunks and a sleeping loft (spoiler: it is amazing)

Be sure to pack out everything you brought in with you, including trash. We carried out lots of empty packets and unused food items left in the Nels Bight food caches during our last visit

*until the pandemic. It was closed for public use in March 2020

Two tent platforms set into the forest at the Fisherman River campsite
Two of the tent platforms at Fisherman River campsite on the Cape Scott Trail

Camping fees

There is no reservation system for campsites in Cape Scott Provincial Park. All camping is available on a first come, first serve basis. With most campsites being on the beach, there is lots of space. 

Backcountry camping fees are collected in Cape Scott Provincial Park from 1st May to 30th September. The cost is $10/per adult/per night.

There is a self registration vault for fees in the parking lot, so bring cash or pay online for a Backcountry Camping Permit in advance instead (click the ‘backcountry’ tab then select ‘backcountry registration.’)

Orange and green tent on golden sands of Nels Bight, facing towards ocean
Nels Bight beach has a huge amount of space for campers as well as unlimited panoramic views

Planning a Cape Scott itinerary

A common backpacking itinerary on the Cape Scott Trail looks a little like this – 

  • Day 1 – Hike from trailhead to Nels Bight (16.8km, 5-7 hours), camp on beach
  • Day 2 – Day hike to Cape Scott Lighthouse (13.6km, 4 hours return)
  • Day 3 – Spare day to relax and explore Nels Bight (or skip this day and hike out early)
  • Day 4 – Hike back to trailhead (16.8km, 5-7 hours)
Looking over the driftwood towards the ocean on Nels Bight beach, Cape Scott Provincial Park
Nels Bight beach really does have stunning views

This three night, four day trip includes just over 47km of hiking. With the elevation gain being very minimal and the ability to base-camp at Nels Bight, this is an ideal first time backpacking trip. Indeed, it was our first ever multi-day hiking adventure back in 2014. 

A longer itinerary may include an additional night at San Josef Bay or Guise Bay. During one trip, we stayed one night at Nissen Bight. This smaller beach is also beautiful and offers a different perspective of the area. 

Layered forest view with moss, bark and tree roots in Cape Scott Provincial Park
The forest landscape in Cape Scott Provincial Park can be fascinating to look at

Hiking essentials: what to bring

The Cape Scott Trail is an immensely satisfying trek through beautifully remote, pristine scenery on Vancouver Island. It’s not technically difficult but still has a few challenges. Mud, rain and slippery boardwalks are the most common issues. Here are some essential items to bring to help mitigate these challenges:

  • Hiking poles are so helpful on the Cape Scott Trail to assist with balance when navigating mud, pools of water and boardwalks. We share a pair of incredibly light and foldable Black Diamond Carbon Z poles
  • Take one more pair of socks than you usually would. Your feet will thank you after being in wet shoes for at least part of the day! We swear by Icebreaker Hike Plus Light Cushion socks (and they have a lifetime warranty!)
  • Warm layers are essential, even during the summer months. The weather can change quickly here and the wet climate can make it feel a lot cooler than elsewhere. My backpacking wardrobe basically consists of merino wool, mostly Icebreaker baselayers like this
  • A water filter should used to treat any freshwater found in Cape Scott Provincial Park. Nels Bight and Nissen Bight beaches both have natural water sources. The BeFree is ideal for multi-day hiking trips like this. Check other options on MEC
  • As mentioned, the Cape Scott Trail is usually very muddy. For a cleaner and drier hike, use boot gaiters – this type work well
  • Bear spray is definitely an essential, ideally stored in an easy-to-access holster. Black bears, wolves, cougars and elk live in Cape Scott Provincial Park and you should know how to alert them to your presence and what to do when encountered. On our last visit, we saw a black bear in the Cape Scott parking lot
  • Bring cash. The Cape Scott Lighthouse keepers sell candy, chips and pop cans during the main hiking season and accept cash only

Check out our Shop for more outdoor gear recommendations for trips like this

The squat red and white Cape Scott Lighthouse
The Cape Scott Lighthouse

Other hiking trails in the park

Nels Bight and the Cape Scott Lighthouse aren’t the only destinations in Cape Scott Provincial Park.

  • San Josef Bay is a very popular easy day hike (5km) and offers a great taste of the coastal wilderness in the rest of the park. The sea stacks here are gorgeous
  • Hansen Lagoon was the main settlement location of the Danish pioneers and can be visited on a side trail (15.7km from the parking lot). Depending on the tide level, a dyke (built to reclaim land for pasture) can be spotted as well as fence posts and other relics from the past
Looking towards Hansen Lagoon, backdropped by hills
Hansen Lagoon, Cape Scott Provincial Park
  • Mt. St. Patrick is the highest peak in the park at 422m. The rough, unmaintained 3km trail leading to the summit starts from San Josef Bay 
  • The North Coast Trail is a 43km extension to the main Cape Scott Trail, creating a 60km multi-day coastal backpacking experience. It is usually hiked in a westerly direction, with hikers being dropped at the Shushartie Bay trailhead by floatplane or boat and then picked up at the Cape Scott trailhead. For more info, check out this guide
Bear tracks in mud on the Cape Scott Trail
We’ve seen bear and wolf tracks every visit to Cape Scott Provincial Park – make noise, stay alert, store your food properly and carry bear spray

A quick history of Cape Scott Provincial Park

For a place that still remains so remote today, it is somewhat surprising to learn that Cape Scott has been settled a number of times. The Tlatlasikwala, Nakumgilisala and Yutlinuk native peoples once shared the area. 

Ethnically Danish settlers from the US arrived in 1897 with the intent to be self sufficient with fishing and farming. The lack of transportation links combined with the harsh climate forced a retreat little over a decade later. Many of the current place names (such as Nels Bight) are remnants of that era 

Another wave of settlers arrived in 1913, this time a mixed group from the US, Canada and Europe. The population across the Cape Scott locale peaked at 1000 people before suffering similar issues to the Danish pioneers.

The provincial government of the day backed out on several pledges to build local roads, dooming any chance of a successful settlement.

When leaving the area for the final time, the settlers could only take what they could carry on their backs. They left pots, pans, saws and other heavy items in the forest to rust, along with houses, wells and even a boiler. 

Historical artifacts such as these still be seen today, next to the trail and in the forest beyond. Several informal paths lead to grave sites, house foundations and decaying farm equipment. 

Rusting historical artifacts on the Cape Scott Trail, including a plow
Historical artifacts can be found in a number of places on the Cape Scott Trail

Historical points of interest on the trail

Besides the rusting plows and pulley belts, there are other obvious signs of previous colonisation in Cape Scott Provincial Park.

South of Eric Lake, the trail follows the old corduroy route created by the Danish settlers in 1908. Before a path was built around the lake, a boat ride across the lake was required to continue the journey north. Remains of a wharf can be seen on the shore of the lake. 

After Fisherman River, the path follows the very straight route of the telegraph line built in 1913. The old Cape Scott settlement was located just north of here, where the Nissen Bight junction now sits. The heaviest concentration of artifacts can be seen in this area. 

Hansen Meadows lies just around the corner. This wide open area is quite a surprise after hours of hiking in the midst of old growth trees. Previously tidal flats, dykes were used to drain the water away and create farmland. Old fence posts still remain, a testament to the determination of the settlers to make this land agriculturally viable. 

The final part of the Cape Scott Trail encounters another era of history. A small radar station was built at Cape Scott in 1942. The military road to the radar station, in use until the end of WWII, remains part of the trail today. 

For more info, check out this excellent map which offers more details about historical and cultural points of interest in Cape Scott Provincial Park and where to find them.

Mirror lake surface on Eric Lake, with wooden wharf remains next to trail
Wharf remains on the southern edge of Eric Lake on the Cape Scott Trail

How to get to Cape Scott Provincial Park 

Cape Scott Provincial Park is located at the extreme northwestern tip of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Getting there requires a little more effort than some of the more popular provincial parks on Vancouver Island. 

A massive cut tree trunk with a 'Be Prepared for the Unexpected' hazard sign
A sign on the Holberg Road to Cape Scott Provincial Park
  • Access to the park is via a gravel logging road from Port Hardy. It is bumpy in places and can be very slippery when wet. Be prepared to take your time and drive slowly
  • A high clearance vehicle is recommended. Drive with headlights on at all times and be prepared to pull over for industrial traffic. Use caution around corners and avoid the soft shoulders
  • Bring a full size spare tire and be familiar with changing it. We passed two groups of people changing tires on our last visit to Cape Scott
The Cape Scott Provincial Park parking lot with picnic tables covered by a shelter plus outhouse and information board
What to expect on arrival – the Cape Scott Provincial Park parking lot with shelter, outhouse and information board
  • Driving time from Port Hardy to Cape Scott Provincial Park is around 1.5-2 hours. Yes, it’s only around 67km but expect your average speed to be 40-50km/h
  • Some of the roads leading to the park are occasionally closed for maintenance – check the BC Parks website for notices before heading out
  • Visitors to Cape Scott Provincial Park should be completely self sufficient. After leaving Port Hardy, there are very limited services and facilities available. Fill up on gas and buy all the supplies you need (groceries, propane etc) before heading out of Port Hardy
  • The tiny village of Holberg (pop. 200) is located about 13km from Cape Scott. It’s a base for the logging operations in the area and consequently has very limited visitor services. There is an excellent pub though! 
  • On arrival in Cape Scott Provincial Park, you’ll find a hiking trailhead, two fairly large parking lots, two outhouses, an info board and covered picnic table area
A black bear in the distance, behind parking fences in the Cape Scott parking lot
We encountered a black bear in the Cape Scott parking lot, just after finishing our Cape Scott Trail hike

Where to stay before your Cape Scott hike

Port Hardy has a range of accommodation on offer, including a couple of inns, a backpackers hostel, guesthouses, B&Bs and hotels. Here are my top picks:

North Coast Trail Backpackers – Comfortable hostel with great value dorms as well as private rooms. Walking distance to everything in Port Hardy

Telco House B&B Welcoming option located very close to the waterfront. Highly rated on

Kwa’lilas Hotel Stylish modern hotel featuring indigenous art and carvings, owned by the Gwa’sala ‘Nakwaxda’xw First Nation

Wooden Port Hardy sign with carved bear and fish in front of coastal scenery
Port Hardy is the closest town to Cape Scott Provincial Park – stop here for any last minute supplies

Camping near the trailhead

Overnight parking is not allowed in the Cape Scott parking lot, with signs forbidding it.

One option is to hike in and camp at San Josef Bay via the very easy and flat 2.5km trail. Eric Lake (3km) is also an option, though the trail is more difficult. 

About five minutes (or less!) from the Cape Scott Provincial Park entrance is the Western Forest Products San Josef River Recreation Site campground. It’s a bit run down, but is completely free and there are about eight separated campsites, outhouses, picnic tables and fire pits. Be aware – this campground can flood quickly in heavy rain. 

Another option is the privately run San Josef Heritage Campground just before the Cape Scott entrance. I haven’t visited myself yet but apparently the owner is a character! 

Our preferred camping spot is Nahwitti Lake Recreation Site. This free campground is located right on the road, about a third of the way to Cape Scott from Port Hardy and is set under a canopy of huge balsam and hemlock trees.

White van parked next to tall trees at Nahwitti Recreation Site
Nahwitti Recreation Site, our trusty camping stopover on the way to Cape Scott Provincial Park

Other things to do in the area

Cape Scott isn’t the only reason to visit this spectacular region of Vancouver Island. Extend your trip by a few days and explore other local trails and attractions, such as:

Ronning’s Garden – Not far from the entrance of Cape Scott Provincial Park, Bernt Ronning established a homestead here in 1910. As part of his work to clear the rainforest, he ordered seeds from all over the world and established an eclectic mix of plants and trees (including BC’s largest monkey puzzle tree!) Bernt remained here until the 60’s and the garden is now being maintained by Ron & Julia Moe

Raft Cove – A short drive from Cape Scott, the main attraction at Raft Cove Provincial Park is accessed via a difficult 2km trail. The path is exceptionally muddy, slippery and rooty and takes around 45 minutes to hike. The reward is a gorgeous, long windswept white sand beach. Walk-in camping is $5/night/per person

Scarlet Ibis Pub – Located in Holberg (don’t worry, you’ll be able to find it easily), this no-fuss pub is the only place serving hot food for miles around. The hearty pub grub is immensely satisfying after a hike in Cape Scott Provincial Park! There’s an awesome view from the patio too

Telegraph Cove – On your way to or from Cape Scott, take the detour to explore the tiny boardwalk community of Telegraph Cove. There’s a free whale museum as well as whale watching tours launching straight from the boardwalk. Just a warning – it can be very busy in July and August

Golden sand beach at Raft Cove with seaweed, driftwood, rocks and forest
Raft Cove beach

Discover more amazing Vancouver Island destinations in these posts:

Hiking to Della Falls, Canada’s Highest Waterfall

How to find Big Trees on Vancouver Island

A Complete Guide to Storm Watching in Tofino

25+ of the Best Campgrounds on Vancouver Island

The Cape Scott Trail is a spectacular journey through lush rainforest, sand dunes, stunning beaches and fascinating history at the tip of Vancouver Island. Check here to discover this magnificent trail and everything you need to know to plan your own adventure!
The Cape Scott Trail is a 47km hiking adventure through lush rainforest, sand dunes, stunning beaches and interesting history in Cape Scott Provincial Park, at the very northwestern tip of Vancouver Island. Click here to discover everything you need to know about this spectacular multi-day hike!
Looking for a change from alpine hiking in British Columbia? Cape Scott may be exactly what you're looking for. Keep reading to discover more about this one a kind trail, followed by a comprehensive adventure planning guide.

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Friday 5th of August 2022

Gemma: What a wonderful piece on Cape Scott, San Josef Bay and Nels Bight!! Your describe them well. Between 1956 and 1963 I lived in Holberg (7 years). I was 8 yrs old when we moved there. My dad was a logger. We knew Mr. Ronning and Mr. Jensen who were lovely people. I've flown all over the park and camped @ San Josef.

You've written an excellent article! I am so pleased that such a place of stunning beauty was designated a park and people like you are enjoying it's beauty and history. Thank you.


Sunday 7th of August 2022

Hi Laurie,

Oh wow, what a story! Thank you for sharing. I'm so glad you think I did Cape Scott Provincial Park justice in this post :)


Saturday 30th of October 2021

Beautiful and relatively unknown. Thanks to Landmark maps I found out about the Hotel in Port Hardy and then discovered this trail. Wow


Thursday 7th of June 2018

Hi! We would like to hike the whole North Coast Trail next month. Problem is we have really small budget for 1 month in Canada, so we primarily want to hitchhike and sleep outside (as we do everywhere). Is it possible to do wild camping while hiking NCT without paying 10 dolars per night? I mean, not using the official camping places but just random places on the trail. Of course we keep the Leave no trace principle, camp without making noise, fire etc. How does the paying actually work? You need to pay all the cost before you enter the park or are there rangers who control people? Thank you very much for response and for great trip report.


Thursday 7th of June 2018

Hi Kristina,

You can wild camp (random camping) in Cape Scott Provincial Park outside of the campsites but you still need to pay the nightly backcountry camping fees. Think of it as a trail fee - it pays for the maintenance of the trail so you are able to hike it. You can pay online or self register at the San Josef trailhead. There is a ranger's cabin on Nels Night beach so it is very possible that you may run into a ranger.


Wednesday 9th of August 2017

About to hike the North Coast Trail with the Canadian non-profit Connected in Motion. This article is beautifully written and love all the photographs. I am worried about the mud but that is what makes it fun...right? Keep exploring you two.


Wednesday 9th of August 2017

Good luck for your hike Erik! In hindsight, the mud definitely made the hike more memorable for sure ;) Thanks for your lovely comments about the article.


Sunday 31st of July 2016

Hiya! My guy and I are travelling from Toronto to Vancouver Island next week. We will be hiking from the trailhead to San Josef Bay and thenjoy North as long as we can. What equipment would you recommend that we bring?


Friday 5th of August 2016

Hi Jenne,

You'll need everything to be self sufficient for as long as you plan to stay. There is absolutely no supplies in Cape Scott park and Port Hardy is a good couple of hours drive away.