North Coast Trail: Complete 2024 Hiking Guide

Traversing some of the muddiest and wettest terrain anywhere in British Columbia (and indeed, in North America!), the North Coast Trail has the reputation of being one of the most difficult backpacking trips around.

Covering 43km of technical beach and forest terrain, the trail features almost constant obstacles like rope climbs, deep mud, giant tree roots, slippery cobblestones, fallen trees and rocky headlands.

At times, it’s less of a hike and more of an obstacle course. After hiking it, I would say that the North Coast Trail deserves its reputation.

But the challenge is only half of the story. There are many good reasons to brave this trail, including regular wildlife sightings, amazing beach camping spots, lush old-growth forests, plenty of solitude, incredible Pacific Ocean sunsets and more.

This comprehensive guide will help you prepare to hike the North Coast Trail.

It features an overview of the trail plus all the planning information you need to know including shuttle details, fee information, safety tips and more.

I’ve also shared some common itineraries, suggested essential items and explained how to make the hiking experience as easy as possible.

Here’s the breakdown:

• North Coast Trail overview
• Location and trailhead details
• Length of trail
• Hike breakdown
• Campgrounds
• Transportation
• Cost
• Tides
• Itineraries
• Best time to hike
• Difficulty
• Navigation
• Wildlife
• Safety information
• Packing list
• Where to stay pre and post-hike
• Our experience

Published September 2024

This post includes some affiliate links – if you make a purchase via one of these, we may receive a percentage of the sale.

North Coast Trail overview

Constructed in 2008 to bring new tourism revenue opportunities to the remote North Vancouver Island area, the North Coast Trail (NCT) is a challenging 43.1km coastal backpacking adventure.

This is the traditional territory of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people – a fortified village named Nahwitti once located at Cape Sutil.

The North Coast Trail is situated in Cape Scott Provincial Park. Like the connecting Cape Scott Trail, some sections of the North Coast Trail also follow old trading and settler routes.

Why hike the North Coast Trail?

There is no question about it, the North Coast Trail is a difficult hike.

Imagine 20+ rope climbs, steep hills, huge tree roots, deep mud and bog, hundreds of stairs, slippery boardwalks and more. And I haven’t even mentioned the beach sections yet!

But there are many rewards. One of the best things about the North Coast Trail is how remote and quiet it is.

While the trail’s popularity has increased significantly in the last 4 years, its growth is limited by the number of shuttles and the overall difficulty.

The western side of the North Coast Trail (Nissen Bight, Laura Creek) receives some traffic from the Cape Scott Trail but further east, there is a lot of solitude still to be found.

We hiked the trail in August (2024), one of the busiest months. Since most people travel in an east to west direction, we passed only a handful of hikers and were overtaken only once in five days.

We had so many beautiful West Coast beaches all to ourselves, with wildlife sightings (whales, sea otters, black bears) almost daily.

Almost all of the camping areas are on the beach, with the wild and roaring ocean as an ever-present and always-changing backdrop. When the weather is clear, the sunsets are spectacular.

This is a special place that takes some tenacity to reach. For experienced hikers looking for a challenge, the North Coast Trail is worth the effort.

North Coast Trail: Quick facts

• Officially 43.1km, more likely a little more in reality (I measured 45.5km)
• 4-5 day hike for the main trail only, with many possible extensions (5-8 days or even longer)
• A difficult backpacking trail, one of BC’s most challenging
• 7 campgrounds, all but one on beautiful beaches
• Technically open year-round, but easiest to hike in July and August (drier months)
• Lots of wildlife watching potential
• Most hikers traverse the NCT from east to west, from Shushartie Bay to Nissen Bight
• Around $350 for a standard 5-day hike, per person

North Coast Trail Hiking Guide

Ready to start planning a hike on the North Coast Trail? This section shares everything I think you should know for trip planning.

Location and trailhead details

The North Coast Trail is located in Cape Scott Provincial Park on the northwestern tip of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada.

The eastern trailhead of the North Coast Trail, and where most backpackers start, is a rocky beach on Shushartie Bay. Accessed by water and hiking trail only, this beach is one hour by boat from the small town of Port Hardy.

The western trailhead is on Nissen Bight, a sandy beach only accessible by hiking trail. Nissen Bight is a short detour from the main Cape Scott Trail. Boat access is possible from nearby Fisherman Bay (500m).

The only road-accessible trailhead is in the Cape Scott parking lot, 15km south of Nissen Bight. This parking lot is a two-hour drive from Port Hardy, on an unpaved industrial road. Driving directions and tips in our Cape Scott guide.

We hiked the North Coast Trail in combination with the Cape Scott Trail, a 23km long path from the parking lot to the Cape Scott Lighthouse. We spent a total of 7 nights on both trails, with a side trip to San Josef Bay.

There is shuttle access from Port Hardy to all three trailheads. Another company offers a shuttle service to Port Hardy from various Vancouver Island locations.

This means that it is possible to hike the North Coast Trail using public transport – something quite impressive for such a remote trail.

Driving distances to Port Hardy:

• From Victoria: 500km, 5 hours 45 minutes
• From Duke Point, Nanaimo: 400km, 4 hours 20 minutes
• From Departure Bay, Nanaimo: 385km, 4 hours
• From Campbell River: 230km, 2 hours 30 minutes

For suggestions on where to stop on the way to Port Hardy, check out this Campbell River to Port Hardy road trip guide.

How long is the North Coast Trail?

The official distance between the two trailheads is 43.1km.

GPS measurements suggest the North Coast Trail little longer. I have used my own measurements in our section-by-section breakdown (45.5km total).

Most hikers explore the trail as a thru-hike from east to west, completing the most difficult terrain within the first few days.

The most popular option is to combine a water taxi drop-off at Shushartie Bay with a shuttle bus departure from the main Cape Scott parking lot (this is what we did).

This water taxi/shuttle bus combination provides an opportunity to explore more areas of Cape Scott Provincial Park, including the namesake lighthouse.

• Hiking from Nissen Bight to the Cape Scott parking lot is an extra 15km
• Nels Bight is a popular 7.8km return detour from the Nissen/Nels Bight junction
• Cape Scott Lighthouse is a 13.6km day hike from Nels Bight
• San Josef Bay is 5km return from the Cape Scott parking lot

The total distance for the above is around 85km.

Some hikers access the trail via water taxi both ways. This means that there is no need to hike any extra distance. Of course, you could still choose to detour to Nels Bight anyway.

Another alternative way to access the North Coast Trail is to hike to Nissen Bight from the Cape Scott parking lot and traverse the route from west to east instead (and potentially east to west again, for an out-and-back experience).

North Coast Trail hike breakdown

Looking for a section-by-section description of the North Coast Trail so you know exactly what to expect?

To prevent this post from becoming even more of a monster guide than it is already, I decided to feature my North Coast Trail hike breakdown in a separate post.

North Coast Trail location	Distance from Shushartie Bay
Shushartie Bay Campground	50m
Skinner Creek Campground	8.9km
Nahwitti Creek Campground	11.4km
Tripod Beach West (after cliffs)	15.9km
Cape Sutil Campground	17.4km
Irony Creek (Shuttleworth Bight)	25.3km
Laura Creek	38.3km
Nissen Bight East Campground	44.2km
Nissen Bight West Campground	45.5km
Nissen Bight/Nels Bight junction	47.6km
Nels Bight	51.4km
Cape Scott Lighthouse	58.2km
Cape Scott parking lot	60.5km

NCT campgrounds

There are seven designated camping areas on the North Coast Trail. Head over to our North Coast Trail campground guide to read the lowdown of each campground as well as some essential beach camping tips.

North Coast Trail transportation

The North Coast Trail is serviced by one shuttle operator – the Cape Scott Water Taxi.

This Port Hardy-based company offers water taxi shuttles to/from Shushartie Bay, Cape Sutil and Fisherman Bay. They also run a bus shuttle from the Cape Scott parking lot back to Port Hardy (and vice versa).

Shuttle type	Departure time	Price per person	Minimums
Port Hardy to Shushartie Bay boat shuttle	Usually 7am	$150.00	4 person minimum
Port Hardy to Cape Sutil boat shuttle	Tide dependent	$175.00	5 person minimum
Port Hardy to Fisherman Bay boat shuttle	Tide dependent	$225.00	6 person minimum
Cape Scott parking lot to Port Hardy bus shuttle	12.30pm	$125.00	3 person minimum

The service operates from mid-April to late September, though the first two weeks are weather-dependent.

To secure your preferred dates, it is best to reserve in advance. We booked our shuttles in late March for mid August. We were advised that some summer days were already filling up.

A credit card is required for booking. Payment is taken on departure day but the full amount will be charged if you cancel less than 7 days before.

Landings on Cape Sutil and Fisherman Bay can only happen at high tide and in favourable weather. For this reason, the bus shuttle is more reliable and easier for planning purposes.

If your group is smaller than the minimum hiker amount for a shuttle, Cape Scott Water Taxi will try to combine your group with another. For this reason, it’s important to be flexible with dates, especially in the shoulder season months.

The summer months are busy and there are often two boat shuttles heading to Shushartie Bay each morning. The first shuttle typically departs at 7am, with the second at 9am.

Parking and registration

The Cape Scott Water Taxi is located at the Quarterdeck Marina, just behind the Quarterdeck Hotel in Port Hardy. This is the precise location (Google Maps).

Park in the open lot. There is a charge for parking, more details are below. It is not a secure lot but we felt our vehicle and contents were pretty safe there. Obviously, don’t leave any valuable or sentimental items in your vehicle.

Plan to arrive 30 minutes before the scheduled departure. Our boat left on time. The bus shuttle departs and arrives from the same office.

Head into the office to register. It can be hard to work out exactly where to go – look for the office with an open door, by the boat launch.

During the registration process, you will be asked whether you have a BC Parks camping permit. They can print a copy if you haven’t already.

The Shushartie Bay landing is on a rock beach. Plan to wear your hiking shoes – it is NOT a wet landing. Our driver, Ron, advised us that they’ve never had a ‘wet drop’ before.

Each water taxi seats 12 passengers. We had 8 people total and all of our backpacks were placed undercover, in the main seating area.

On a busier boat shuttle, I can imagine some backpacks may need to be placed outside. Consider using your backpack cover in wet weather.

How much does the North Coast Trail cost?

There are a few fees associated with hiking the North Coast Trail – camping fees, shuttle fees (if applicable) and parking fees (if applicable).

Hiking and camping fees

It is free to hike in Cape Scott Provincial Park with no day-use permit required.

There is, however, a permit required for camping during the main backpacking season.

Backcountry camping fees are collected in Cape Scott Provincial Park from 1st May to 30th September. The cost is $10/per adult/per night.

The easiest way to pay for a Backcountry Camping Permit is to use the BC Parks online registration system (click the ‘backcountry’ tab, ‘backcountry registration,’ then ‘Cape Scott’).

There is an unlimited amount of permits available but registration can only be completed up to two weeks in advance.

There are self-registration vaults in the Cape Scott parking lot and at Shushartie Bay as well (cash only).

Parking fees

The Cape Scott parking lot is free to use. There are two fairly large parking lots, two outhouses, an information kiosk and a covered picnic table area.

Parking outside the Cape Scott Water Taxi office costs $35/week. As mentioned above, it is an unsecured lot in front of the office.

Shuttle fees

The amount of shuttle fees varies with the route chosen. The bus is $125.00 one-way (per person), while the boat shuttles are $150-225 one-way (per person). See the shuttle section for more details.

Total cost

The total fee for the most popular 5 day North Coast Trail adventure is $350 per person (plus tax):

• Water taxi to Shushartie Bay = $150.00
• 4 nights camping permit x $10 = $40.00
• Shuttle bus to Port Hardy = $125.00
• Port Hardy parking fees = $35.00

The two person cost would be slightly lower since the parking fee would be shared ($332.50).

Of course, this amount does not take into account a hotel stay before/after the hike, gas costs to reach Port Hardy, food and equipment costs etc.

Tides

Around half of the North Coast Trail is coastal. The route traverses sand, pebble and rock beaches of varying sizes as well as steep headlands.

It is easier to walk the coastal sections at low tide. At high tide, the beaches become smaller. Due to this, the route ahead may become blocked by rocks, fallen trees, driftwood and other natural obstacles.

There is one main ‘tidal problem’ on the North Coast Trail and a few other small ones – these are locations where the route along the beach is impassable at high tide.

Tide tables display predicted tide heights throughout the day in one particular coastal area. The best tide tables to use for the North Coast Trail are those produced for Cape Scott.

I would suggest printing a copy of the tide chart for your trip dates and bringing it with you. The chart at the bottom provides excellent hour-by-hour tide heights.

Tripod Beach tidal problem

The most significant tidal problem on the North Coast Trail is at Tripod Beach, just east of Cape Sutil at kilometre 16km.

Depending on the conditions (recent shoreline erosion, weather), the rocky cliffs at the western side of Tripod Beach are usually passable when the tide is lower than 2.3-2.4m.

Please note that this figure is not an officially issued number, but based on our visual estimates when visiting in August 2024. The best thing to do is aim for a low/mid tide and avoid high tide completely (typically 3.2-3.7m).

Skinner Beach tidal problem

As marked on North Coast Trail maps in the park, BC Parks suggests a tidal problem on Skinner Beach.

During high tide, hikers are encouraged to use a rough inland trail that runs parallel to the beach.

We walked along Skinner Beach during a tide of 3.5m and had no issues – there was lots of space along the beach to walk.

It may be possible that the shoreline has changed enough in recent years so it is less of an issue in calm weather or perhaps BC Parks is referring to exceptionally high (king) tides. Either way, keep in mind that it is there.

Other tidal considerations

Though there are no other tidal problems marked on the BC Parks maps, there are a few other places where NCT hikers may encounter problems at high tide.

The Tripod Beach to Irony Creek section features many pocket beaches. There are various high tide detours up and over headlands in this area, so keep an eye out for the signage.

Our North Coast Trail hike was subject to early afternoon high tides and we found ourselves blocked by several unexpected obstacles in this area, with no detours.

We had to climb over several slippery rockfaces, under huge fallen trees and even over tall (4-5m) piles of driftwood.

The pebble beaches along the Irony Creek to Laura Creek section are steeply sloped and become quite narrow at high tide. This makes hiking more challenging, especially when there is a lot of driftwood, seaweed or bears (yes, really!)

Itineraries

Most North Coast Trail hikers complete the full 43km route in 3 to 5 days. Many combine the trip with 1-3 additional days on the connecting Cape Scott Trail.

For trip planning help and itinerary ideas, head over to our dedicated North Coast Trail itineraries guide.

The best time to hike the North Coast Trail

While technically the North Coast Trail is open year-round, the main hiking season is mid-April to late September. This is based on the North Coast Trail Shuttle’s operating schedule.

Located in a particularly wet area of a temperate rainforest-covered island, the North Coast Trail is heavily impacted by rainy and storm weather. When it rains here, it really rains. Like 40-100mm of torrential rain in one day.

Beyond the resulting mud, keep in mind that the trail also traverses bog, steep cliffs (with ropes), root/fallen tree obstacles, wooden boardwalks/stairs and pebble beaches.

There are a lot of places to slip, trip and fall. And, of course, rain makes everything more hazardous.

The best time to hike the trail within the main hiking season is the warmer, drier months (July and August) when the trail is less muddy and slippery and the weather is more favourable.

Heavy rain is still possible but less likely. Fog is more common in August. Heat waves are a risk in summer -keep in mind that the beach sections are very exposed. Water sources can become limited.

The North Coast Trail Shuttle requires a minimum amount of hikers to run. With July and August being the most popular months to go, it is relatively easy to organise a shuttle though it is important to reserve early to secure your preferred dates.

If hiking the Cape Scott Trail as well as the North Coast Trail, consider the days of the week. San Josef Bay is very busy on weekends. If you can, avoid staying here on a Saturday night in the summer months.

Nels Bight is also exceptionally popular but since it is so large, the beach can host many people without feeling nearly as crowded as San Josef. The food caches are usually only full at Nels Bight on the BC Day holiday weekend in early August.

Shoulder season trips

It is, of course, still possible to hike the North Coast Trail outside of the summer months.

Be sure to carefully evaluate your group’s abilities, expectations and potential itineraries before planning a shoulder season trip. Travel will be slower when the trail is wet.

Difficulty

The North Coast Trail is a challenging hiking path traversing both technical beach and forest terrain. This type of terrain requires more attention and physical effort than your average alpine backpacking trip.

Think rope climbs, deep mud, giant root systems, huge fallen trees, uneven surfaces, slippery boardwalks, piles of driftwood, energy-sucking beach pebbles and sand, cable cars and more.

At the time of writing, the North Coast Trail is the most difficult backpacking trail I have personally done.

If you have some coastal hiking experience (e.g. West Coast Trail, Juan de Fuca Trail), you will have a much better idea of what to expect on the North Coast Trail.

Having said that, some NCT obstacles are not found on either the WCT or JDF (such as the ropes). Likewise, there are very few ladders on the NCT (unlike the WCT) and not as many hills (unlike the JDF).

Compared to the West Coast Trail, I have to say that the North Coast Trail’s infrastructure (boardwalks, bridges, steps) is in much better condition. We found very few damaged or uneven boardwalks.

I recommend hiking at least one other Vancouver Island coastal trail before tackling this one.

The North Coast Trail is remote and a rescue could take some time. Hikers should be well prepared for the difficulty of this trail and also be self-sufficient.

Hiking tips

There are ways to make the North Coast Trail easier:

• Spend 5 or more days on the trail
• Hike the Shushartie Bay to Irony Creek section in three days, not two (see itinerary section for examples)
• Plan a trip for the driest and warmest months (July/August)
• Check the tides before deciding on dates – it is easier to hike the coastal sections during low tide
• Keep your bag as light as possible – preferably no more than 20% of your body weight
• Consider a shortened route or yo-yo, avoiding the most difficult part of the trail (Shushartie Bay to Cape Sutil)

Though some people may argue differently, I would say that hiking the North Coast Trail from east to west is easier.

The most technically difficult sections are located on the eastern side. For me, I find it helpful both physically and mentally to get a trail’s most challenging terrain completed early.

Navigation

The North Coast Trail is a well used trail (up to 20 hikers most summer days) and has become a lot more established in recent years.

Having said that, it’s still a remote path in very rugged terrain. There is very little formal signage along the route.

The North Coast Trail is about 55% on the beach, 45% in the forest. When traversing the coastal sections, the ocean will always be on the same side (right, if you travel east to west like most hikers).

Direction is less obvious in the forest but since most of the route is well established, it is usually straightforward to stay on track. I do say ‘usually’ since the various fallen tree/root obstacles can make it trickier.

There are some orange trail markers in forest sections as well as some pink flagging in areas where the trail has needed to be detoured.

The trickiest part of navigating the North Coast Trail is knowing when to leave and exit the beach sections.

Access points are usually adorned with colourful buoys in the surrounding trees. There are some ‘high tide route’ signs as well, most visible when hiding westbound (from Shushartie Bay).

For a topographic map, check out John Baldwin’s North Coast Trail 1:50,000. Wild Coast Publishing make a more detailed map. Both are printed on waterproof paper and are ideal for use on the trail.

We used Organic Maps for quick navigational pointers on the trail. The relevant map can be downloaded and then used offline. It provides a GPS location with NCT overlay, so you can find your location quickly.

We found the Organic Maps North Coast Trail route to be accurate with just one exception – the beach labelled ‘Tripod Beach’ is actually Cape Sutil beach!

Wildlife

The North Coast Trail is home to a variety of mammals and many different bird species (both migratory and resident).

Black bears, cougars and wolves utilise the beaches and forest trails. In the ocean, humpback whales, orcas, sea lions, sea otters and seals swim by.

We saw humpback whales almost every day while hiking the North Coast Trail. We also spotted sea otters swimming in the kelp forest off the shore of Nahwitti Creek and near Wolftracks Beach in between Irony Creek and Laura Creek.

Black bears were a fairly common sight on our trip too – JR and I encountered them eight times, mostly around Laura Creek. They were usually hunting in the seaweed and rockpools for crabs and shellfish. I loved watching them!

Negative wildlife encounters are rare on the North Coast Trail. Here’s how to avoid them:

• Make noise while hiking. This alerts wildlife to your presence and gives them a chance to avoid you. As a general rule, animals don’t want to be close to humans
• Store food properly. Use the provided food caches (create a bear hang if you choose to wild camp outside of a campground)
• Leave No Trace. After eating, make sure you haven’t left any food or wrappers around
• Give wildlife space. If you do see any animals, keep your distance – ideally 100m or more. This offers them an escape route
• Know what to do if a wolf, cougar or bear approaches you. Different techniques are required, depending on the type of animal and its behaviour
• Carry bear spray. An aerosol deterrent made with chilli pepper oil, bear spray is a ‘last resort’ tool, used only when other methods have failed
• Stay away from animal carcasses. We spotted a seal carcass on Nels Bight Beach, with many bear tracks leading away from it…

Safety information

The North Coast Trail is a challenging multi-day hike with lots of different hazards. There are many ways to get an injury on this trail.

Typical hazards:

• Mud. There is a lot of mud on the North Coast Trail, especially in the shoulder seasons. In the boggiest sections, it can be knee or even hip deep!
• Ropes. More than 20+ ropes are provided to help hikers climb up/down steeper section of the trail. In some places (and in dry weather), the ropes just offer extra assistance. In other areas, the ropes are essential for safer passage – think 3-4m high cliffs with very few footholds, muddy slopes and slippery rockfaces
• Cable cars. These metal contraptions can be both fun and tiring to use. The latter is particularly true for solo hikers. There are two cable cars on the NCT. Keep your fingers and hair away from the cable and pulleys.
• Beach terrain. Seaweed, boulders and rocks can be very slippery. Most pocket beaches are accessed via ropes and/or steep slopes. Pebbles and pea gravel can be tiring to hike on. There are occasional driftwood/tree/rock obstacles.
• Rain. As mentioned, it rains a lot in the area. And it is often torrential. Bring appropriate clothing and gear. Campfires are banned in dry conditions, usually early/mid July to the end of August
• Trees. The NCT passes through some incredible old-growth forests. But this does mean that there are some pretty gnarly root and fallen tree obstacles, which are often exceptionally slippery and sometimes very challenging to traverse.
• Boardwalks and stairs. The North Coast Trail has a surprising amount of well-maintained boardwalks and staircases. These can be very slippery when wet.
• Tides. When hiking the NCT, you need to understand how to read a tide table and how to safely cross the Tripod Beach tidal problem
• Creek and river crossings. The major water crossings have bridges or cable cars. Some smaller creeks require rock hopping, which may not be possible after rain. Flooding is a risk.
• Tsunamis. Though a very rare occurrence, hikers need to be aware of the possibility of a tsunami while on the North Coast Trail. Move to higher ground if you feel the ground shake or the ocean recede quickly.

The most effective way to avoid most issues is appropriate preparation (training, clothing, equipment etc.). The second is to slow down.

Injuries are more likely to happen when hikers are rushing and/or tired. Weather can increase the risk.

Take plenty of breaks (enjoy the coastal scenery!), eat regularly and drink lots of water. Know your limits and plan a realistic schedule, adapting it as you need to.

We hiked the North Coast Trail with a relatively ‘slow’ itinerary. It really helped with the overall difficulty and lowered our risk of injury.

North Coast Trail packing list

The lighter your backpack, the easier (and likely more enjoyable) you’ll find your North Coast Trail hike. Of course, you still need to ensure you have everything to be self-sufficient and comfortable. Backpacking is a balance!

Here are all the items we carried on the North Coast Trail (you may find our backpacking gear guide helpful to make your own list):

Essential items

Hiking poles – This backpacking trip has lots of different obstacles as well as plenty of mud. Hiking poles can be very helpful. We used Black Diamond’s Carbon Zs, which are super light and also pack down easily.

Satellite communication device – There is zero phone signal in this region. For emergency purposes, we carried an InReach device. In the event of a delay, we would have been able to re-arrange our exit shuttle.

Bear spray – There are lots of black bears in this area, as well as cougars and wolves. Bear spray is helpful to have as a last resort in the unlikely event you need it. Carry the canister in an accessible place and know how to use it.

Backcountry registration – Don’t forget to bring a printed copy of your BC Parks backcountry registration!

Cape Scott tide table – As mentioned in the tides section, a tide table is essential for hiking the North Coast Trail. Be sure to have the correct tide table for your dates.

Gaiters. There is a lot of mud on the North Coast Trail, even in summer. To avoid even muddier shoes, bring long gaiters to wear. We both wore them every day while hiking. As well as helping with the mud, our gaiters kept beach pebbles out of our shoes.

River shoes. While not as necessary in the warmer months when most creeks can be rock-hopped, I used my sandals to cross Irony Creek. My river shoes are also my camp shoes – I use Teva Hurricane Drift sandals.

Lightweight tarp. Even if your forecast looks good, I would recommend bringing a tarp. The torrential rain in this area is no joke!

Where to stay before and after the North Coast Trail

Port Hardy has a range of accommodation, including a couple of inns, a backpackers hostel, guesthouses, B&Bs and hotels.

The closest hotel to the North Coast Trail water taxi office is the Quarterdeck Inn – it is right in front of the dock. The rooms are modern and some have ocean views.

My top picks in Port Hardy’s downtown area:

• North Coast Trail Backpackers – Comfortable hostel with great value dorms as well as private rooms. Walking distance to everything in Port Hardy
• Telco House B&B – Welcoming option located very close to the waterfront. Highly rated on Booking.com
• Kwa’lilas Hotel – Stylish modern hotel featuring Indigenous art and carvings, owned by the Gwa’sala ‘Nakwaxda’xw First Nation

The closest place to stay near the Cape Scott parking lot is the Adventure Huts in Holberg.

These small handcrafted cabins are on the basic side but have everything you need after some time in the backcountry (including access to a shower)! They are conveniently located opposite the Scarlet Ibis Pub.

If you need last-minute supplies, the Holberg Store has a good range. They also sell isobutane gas.

Overnight parking is not allowed in the Cape Scott parking lot, with signs forbidding it.

Less than five minutes drive away, however, is the Western Forest Products San Josef River Recreation Site campground. While a little run-down, this campground is completely free.

The North Coast Trail: Our experience

We hiked both the North Coast Trail, Cape Scott Trail and San Josef Bay Trail with Leigh from HikeBikeTravel and her husband John in August 2024.

Our adventure was eight days (and 90km+) long, with 4 nights on the NCT, 2 on the CST and 1 night at San Josef Bay. Our itinerary looked like this:

• Day 1: Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti Creek
• Day 2: Nahwitti Creek to Cape Sutil
• Day 3: Cape Sutil to Irony Creek
• Day 4: Irony Creek to Laura Creek
• Day 5: Laura Creek to Nels Bight
• Day 6: Day hike to the Cape Scott Lighthouse from Nels Bight
• Day 7: Nels Bight to San Josef Bay
• Day 8: San Josef Bay to the Cape Scott parking lot

I first learned about the North Coast Trail in 2014, when JR and I were planning our first-ever backpacking trip.

We ended up hiking the Cape Scott Trail. Back then, and especially after that first tough trip, the NCT felt like an insurmountable challenge.

Fast forward a decade and we now have the experience of multiple coastal trails under our belt – the West Coast Trail, the Nootka Trail, the Juan de Fuca Trail and 140km of the East Coast Trail (Newfoundland).

Since Leigh and John were keen to join us, it seemed like a good time to return to Cape Scott Provincial Park and take on this infamous trail.

North Coast Trail experience – Shushartie Bay to Cape Sutil (day 1 and 2)

Starting the trail, my biggest fear was falling on my face at Shushartie Bay while getting off the water taxi.

For me, everything else on day 1 was just a mental challenge to get through. After the Juan de Fuca and West Coast Trail, I knew I could get through deep swathes of mud and giant tree obstacles (though with a very sweaty face).

Hiking in August, the mud wasn’t so bad. Yes, it was still there (and you could see where more would be in the wetter months), but we didn’t encounter anything deeper than knee height.

Rolling into Nahwitti Creek Campground at a reasonable time (less than 8 hours after leaving Shushartie Bay) was a big relief. It was meant to be all ‘downhill’ from here!

The first day was what I’d called a manageable grind. Not a fun hike but doable, at least in summer. It was also prettier than I’d expected. I really like twisted lodgepole pine trees and this section had plenty.

Spotting a bear on the other side of the Nahwitti estuary and sea otters playing in the seaweed just offshore, I was excited about things to come. What I didn’t expect was how difficult the following day’s rope sections would be.

Up early to beat the tides, we arrived at the Tripod Beach cliffs much earlier than anticipated. The next section took me by surprise. I was ready for ropes but didn’t expect to need to rappel down an almost vertical 3-4m slope with very few footholds!

While it wasn’t my most elegant moment, I was able to make it down with JR’s help. I was happy to chill for the rest of the day at Cape Sutil and was very glad we hadn’t planned to go further (and honestly, what a great beach to spend a night at).

Cape Sutil to Laura Creek (day 3 and 4)

Day 3 was by far my favourite day on the North Coast Trail. The worst really was over and we had nothing but blue skies to enjoy.

The section from Cape Sutil to Irony Creek is quite beach focused, with a few short detours into the forest. Yes, there are ropes and plenty of other tree/root obstacles, but nothing as difficult as the prior days.

The beaches are a wonder to explore, with both natural and man-made things to find. The latter includes bottles and fishing items from both Japan and South Korea. In general, though, we were surprised by how little plastic we found.

Spoiled for choice of beaches to rest on, we took the day slow and stopped often. Arriving at Irony Creek at high tide, the beach didn’t look as spectacular as promised.

The true beauty of this long stretch of golden sand was revealed as the ocean slowly retreated. The sunset was one of the best I’ve ever experienced on a coastal trail.

The next day was somehow even more scenic, with the jagged peaks of BC’s mainland mountains visible on the horizon.

We soon had our first close encounter with a black bear on a beach, followed by another in the afternoon.

With the tide so high, we had to pass them relatively closely. Content with hunting for creatures in the seaweed, both bears weren’t really bothered by us.

The approach to Laura Creek was more taxing than I expected. The high tide pushed us up the steeply sloped beaches, making progress more difficult. The cobblestone rocks are tough on feet and we had to navigate around huge driftwood piles and some additional headlands.

I wasn’t super fond of the Laura Creek Campground. Though I loved the many bear and whale sightings, I found the setting a little claustrophobic.

To add to that, while I enjoyed meeting westbound hikers, it did feel like we were leaving a ‘North Coast Trail’ bubble.

Laura Creek to Nissen Bight (day 5)

It was so much easier to traverse Laura Creek beach on a low tide. I loved seeing the rockpools too. Only one more forest section left and we were pretty much done with the North Coast Trail!

This part of the route felt a lot easier than any other section. It was probably a mix of a relatively dry trail, lots of long boardwalks, a lighter backpack and the excitement of finishing.

Descending the final section of the forest trail and hearing the ocean ahead was a wonderful feeling. It was made even better by the beautiful contrast of blue skies with the white sand of Nissen Bight Beach.

We celebrated and had a long lunch before heading to the western side of the beach and the official western trailhead of the NCT.

Originally, we planned only to hike from Laura Creek to Nissen Bight on day 5 but continued onto Nels Bight to enjoy two nights in the same place. It was a great decision!

Cape Scott Trail and San Josef Bay experience

As mentioned, JR and I hiked the Cape Scott Trail on our first backpacking trip back in 2014. We hiked it again in 2019.

It was really fun to return to the trail and experience it from a different perspective. Not only have we completed many other backpacking trips in the interim, but of course, we were able to compare it to the much more difficult North Coast Trail.

In comparison, the Cape Scott Trail felt like a walk in the park. The path was mostly flat and very wide in places. While there were patches of mud, it had nothing on the NCT or our first Cape Scott hike (in April!)

Nels Bight was as beautiful as I remembered it. It remains one of my favourite places in the park. Since the last time we visited, the camping facilities have had a serious upgrade (so many outhouses and caches).

Our hike to the Cape Scott Lighthouse was a real trip down memory lane.

We stayed on the rough coastal route after Experiment Bight and then crossed the dunes to Guise Bay. The lighthouse was just as I’d remembered it. We hiked back to Nels Bight via Guise Bay and the standard forest route.

Back at Nels Bight, we enjoyed yet another great sunset. The first night was the most spectacular, however.

Our final full day was wet, with on-and-off showers throughout our hike to San Josef Bay. Despite the rain, I couldn’t believe how relatively dry the trail was – most of the bogs I remembered were non-existent.

I was very happy to finally visit the sea stacks at San Josef Bay on our last night. By morning, the rain had become torrential. Packing up the tent was a disgusting experience – so wet, so sandy, so much dirt.

By the time we left San Josef Bay, the flat trail back to the parking was completely flooded. But we were leaving, so that was that! The North Coast Trail Shuttle was already there waiting for us. A wet ending but a great overall experience.

Final thoughts

After initially fearing that it would be a grind all the way along, I enjoyed the North Coast Trail more than I thought I would.

The NCT was also somewhat easier than I thought it might be, with the exception of that Tripod Beach to Cape Sutil rope course. And that is something I never thought I’d say!

I believe the reasons for that are simple – favourable weather (no significant rain until the last day), relatively dry trail conditions and a 5 day itinerary. The relatively slow schedule helped with the difficulty.

Had we tried to hike the NCT in 4 days, I don’t think I would have liked it nearly as much. As it was, we spent a lot of time on the trail (plenty of breaks) but also enjoyed long afternoons and evenings in camp.

Our group was a good team – choosing your partners wisely on the NCT is key!

Returning to the Cape Scott Trail was a great way to end our hike. I’m glad we spent two nights at Nels Bight, even though it meant we had torrential rain at San Josef Bay.

I wouldn’t change a thing about our experience. Well, almost. An extra tarp would have been handy on that last night!

Other Vancouver Island hiking and travel guides you may find helpful:

Juan de Fuca Trail

Della Falls Trail

Nootka Trail

West Coast Trail

Nanaimo to Campbell River Road Trip Guide

Pacific Marine Circle Route Road Trip Guide