Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake – the names of these beautiful glacier-fed lakes couldn’t be more apt. They are also two of British Columbia’s most approachable canoe trip destinations.
Situated in the heart of the park and connected by the Clearwater River, the lakes are surrounded by dense forests and mountains. The highest and most impressive peaks loom above Azure Lake.
The mountain range includes the spectacular Garnet Peak (2876m), a Matterhorn/Assiniboine lookalike that is also Wells Gray’s third tallest mountain. It is best seen from Clearwater Lake.
Wells Gray is well known for its collection of beautiful waterfalls and this canoe trip delivers on that front too.
Numerous cascades burst from the slopes above both Clearwater and Azure. The latter is host to Rainbow Falls, a powerful 20m high waterfall on Angus Horne Creek.
Each lake is 24km long, which makes for an adventurous 96km 5-7 day double lake trip. Alternatively, there is a water taxi service to the furthest point.
Prefer the sound of a lazy beach-focused 2-4 day summer canoe trip? You can do that too! Clearwater Lake has many gorgeous stretches of sand, most backed by campgrounds.
Read on for more about our recent canoe trip experience and then discover how to plan your own Clearwater Lake/Azure Lake adventure in the following guide.
Here’s what to expect:
Published July 2024. This post contains some affiliate links. If you make a purchase via one of these links, we may receive a small percentage of the sale.
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Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake, Wells Gray Provincial Park
Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake are located in Wells Gray Provincial Park on the traditional territory of the Ktunaxa and Secwepemc Nations.
Wells Gray is a huge wilderness area in east-central British Columbia, Canada.
Clearwater and Azure lakes are located in the centre of the park, accessed via a scenic road from the community of Clearwater (pop. 2,800).
For orientation, Clearwater is 470km (5 hours 30 minutes) drive from Vancouver and 740km (8 hours) from Calgary.
Clearwater and Azure lakes are both 24km long and sit at right angles to each other. Clearwater Lake runs north to south, and Azure west to east.
Azure is accessible from Clearwater Lake only, via a short section of the Clearwater River. The lake shines a brilliant blue-green colour.
Both lakes are popular destinations for boaters and paddlers on day trips and multi-day adventures.
This post focuses on multi-day lake trips on the lakes, primarily with canoes and kayaks. Canoes are most commonly used.
Some quick facts about Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake:
- Two 24km lakes, connected by the Clearwater River
- 13 camping areas with 50+ campsites
- While free to visit for the day, backcountry camping fees are $5/per person per night
- In addition to the paddling opportunities, there are four hiking trailheads
- Guided group trips are available, ranging from day trips to Rainbow Falls or multi-day paddle adventures
Murtle Lake vs. Clearwater/Azure Lakes
Clearwater and Azure aren’t the only big lakes in Wells Gray Provincial Park.
Situated in the east of the park is Murtle Lake, the largest canoe-only lake in North America.
Interested in a Wells Gray canoe trip but not sure how to choose between Murtle Lake and Clearwater/Azure? Here’s a quick comparison! We also have a detailed Murtle Lake canoe trip guide.
| Murtle Lake | Clearwater/Azure lakes |
| 1067m elevation | 680m/682m elevation |
| Colder water | Warmer water |
| Dogs not allowed | Dogs allowed, not recommended |
| Canoes/kayaks only (quieter) | Powerboat access (busier, noisier) |
| Portage to reach lake | Direct boat launch access |
| No river section | River section (and/or portage) |
| 2 x 20km lake ‘arms’ | 2 x 25km long lakes |
| More hiking trails | Fewer hiking opportunities |
| Less waterfalls | Many waterfalls |
| 60+ campsites | 50+ campsites |
We have paddled both lakes, spending six days in each location. I enjoyed both.
Of the two, I preferred Murtle Lake for the solitude (no powerboats), more unusual lake ‘shape’ and varied hiking opportunities.
For a quick 2-3 day canoe trip, however, I think Clearwater Lake is the better choice. It offers great swimming, beautiful campsites and easier access (no portage).
We found the fishing better on Clearwater Lake too, but that may just be a reflection of our poor angling skills!
Our Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake paddling experience
After paddling Murtle Lake a few years ago, Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake earned a firm place on our ‘must do’ canoe trip list.
I first planned a trip for August 2022. A week before we meant to leave, a dozen wildfires surrounded the lakes. We cancelled it and hiked the Great Divide Trail instead.
Our August 2023 was cancelled too, again due to wildfires (that time, we hiked the rest of the Sunshine Coast Trail).
In 2024, I changed my plan and aimed for mid-July instead. Sure, it may be buggier and the Clearwater River higher, but we’d try it!
And it finally happened. As it turned out, the wildfires arrived while we were there instead. But I’ll tell you about that later.
Itinerary and expectations
Our six-day Clearwater/Azure Lakes canoe trip itinerary looked like this:
- Day 1 (Thursday): 3pm start, paddle to Divers Bluff Campground, 6km approx
- Day 2: Divers Bluff to Osprey Campground, 22km
- Day 3: Osprey to Rainbow Falls Campground, 15.5km
- Day 4: Rainbow Falls (second night), 9km day trip
- Day 5: Rainbow Falls to Archer Creek Campground, 28.5km
- Day 6 (Tuesday): Archer Creek to boat launch with 1pm finish, 17km
We didn’t have a plan before arriving, figuring we’d work it out according to weather conditions.
Initially worried about staying at Rainbow Falls and being surrounded by boats, I wasn’t sure whether we should spend the night there.
Encouraged by other canoeists (we saw maybe a dozen total), we decided to do it.
And while, yes, we were surrounded by boaters (one with a StarLink connection!), staying at Rainbow Falls was still a highlight. What a beach, what a view and what a waterfall!
We were alone the rest of the time and enjoyed the solitude.
Other high points included visiting other waterfalls, fishing (JR caught two rainbow trout), swimming and reading in the hammock. No campfires were possible since a fire ban was introduced the week before.
Clearwater River portage experience
As canoe trips go, the Azure/Clearwater combination is fairly approachable.
If you want to paddle 96km along both lakes, there is only one 500m portage to complete between them (plus a 1km upstream paddle). What an excellent paddle-to-portage ratio!
We had a unique experience on this portage. We were double portaging, meaning that we were carrying our canoe and gear in two journeys rather than one.
When returning to the start for our canoe and final bag, JR noticed a black bear in the forest. It quickly climbed up a tree. I was carrying bear spray so I stayed close to JR as he picked up the canoe and carried it past the bear.
We’ve completed maybe 50 portages or more over the years but never had we had to carry a canoe next to a bear!
Wildfires on Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake
Launching in hot weather, we knew there was a thunderstorm risk on our Clearwater/Azure Lakes canoe trip. But we had no idea of the scale.
A thunderstorm the first night sparked three small local wildfires, with the biggest on the east side of Clearwater Lake.
Another thunderstorm on the fourth night sparked another on the slopes of Mount Huntley above Azure Lake. It was very smoky the next day and the majority of boaters left.
On our fifth night, we witnessed as many as fifty (!) lightning strikes in one hour. Luckily, that thunderstorm also featured torrential rain, which helped to prevent new fires and dampen the existing ones.
On our return journey from Rainbow Falls, we started passing closed campgrounds. Signage indicated that this was due to wildfire danger.
In the end, six campgrounds were closed. At the time of writing (four days later), all but one have reopened.
We carry an Inreach satellite communicator device on every backcountry trip.
Due to this, we were able to message our emergency contact (thanks Mum) and keep track of the wildfires’ location and size. We would have also been able to contact Search and Rescue for emergency assistance.
Before entering the park, I paid for our camping permits online. This registered us in the system and meant that the parks team knew we were there.
We were assured by the Park Facility Operator (PFO) that they would have evacuated us if necessary. They have a power boat and can reach anywhere in the lake within an hour.
Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake canoe trip planning guide
Inspired to explore Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake? Here’s all the info you need to start planning a canoe trip!
How to get to Clearwater Lake
The Clearwater Lake boat launch is located at the very end of Clearwater Valley Road in Wells Gray Provincial Park.
Clearwater Valley Road is 68km long and begins in the community of Clearwater, British Columbia.
The first 42km of the access road is paved and is a straightforward, though somewhat winding, drive. Allow 30 to 40 minutes.
The final 26km is unpaved but is generally in good condition. There is some washboarding on some of the tighter corners and hills. The speed limit is 60km/h so allow around 30 to 40 minutes to drive this section as well.
The boat launch has adjacent loading space for around three vehicles (10 minutes only). There is a floating dock, fee registration station and information kiosk.
The main vehicle parking lot is positioned 200m from the boat launch. It has space for 20 or so vehicles. There is an outhouse at the far end.
There is another parking lot for guided groups and boat trailers.
Reservations and permits
The camping fee for Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake’s backcountry campgrounds is $5 per person, per night. This fee is for a backcountry camping permit.
There is no reservation system – the backcountry campgrounds all operate with a first come, first serve system.
And in case you wondered, Wells Gray Provincial Park is free to enter with no park pass or admission required (unlike Canada’s national parks).
There are two ways to pay for a backcountry camping permit – online or at the Clearwater Lake boat launch self-registration station (cash only).
After our recent experience, I would highly recommend registering online. This ensures that there is a computer record of your visit (important in case of emergency).
- To register online, go to the BC Parks Camping website
- Select the ‘Backcountry’ tab
- Select ‘Backcountry Registration’ and then ‘Wells Gray’
- Enter arrival/departure dates and party size information and then ‘Search’
- On the map, select the green circle next to ‘Wells Gray Clearwater Lake Backcountry Registration’ (see screenshot below)
- On the next screen, select the green diamond next to ‘Backcountry’
- A sidebar should appear – select ‘Reserve’
- Complete the checkout process
After registering, print two copies of the permit. Plan to keep one with you while paddling.
As per BC Parks’ instruction, the other printed permit should be put into an envelope at the self-registration station at the boat launch. Complete the envelope details and include a description of your canoe.
Keep in mind that despite the references to a ‘reservation’ during the booking process, backcountry camping permit registration is not the same as making a reservation! There are an unlimited number of permit registrations available in this park. It does not guarantee a campsite.
Not sure how many nights you want to camp for? Pay for at least 1 or 2 nights and then pay for additional nights with cash to the Park Facility Operator (PFO).
The Park Facility Operator visits all of the campgrounds every few days. Paying for additional nights is OK if you have already registered. If you have not registered, there is a $144 fine.
When to go
The main paddling season for Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake is May to early October, with July and August being the warmest and busiest months.
When first researching the area, I’d heard that August and September were the best time for canoeists to go for these reasons –
- There are less bugs (June and July are the worst months)
- High-ish water levels (smaller beaches)
- The Clearwater River is easier to navigate (slower)
We planned an August trip for 2022 and 2023 but cancelled both years due to the close presence of wildfires.
So in 2024, we tried for a mid-July trip instead.
And for the most part (wildfires aside), it worked out. While there were bugs, we found them manageable – see wildlife section for more details. They were only really bad on the portage.
The Clearwater River was running at around 10km/h during our visit. It took us 40 minutes to paddle 1km upstream to the portage at a very steady pace. More information is in the portage section.
If you’re concerned about the upstream paddle but still want to go to Azure Lake, another option is to pay for the water taxi service to Rainbow Falls and paddle back.
Campgrounds
Clearwater Lake has nine designated camping areas, spread relatively evenly along both west and eastern shores.
Azure Lake has four official campgrounds (plus one with an unknown status), with all but one located on the western side.
All campgrounds feature at least one outhouse, metal food cache, fire pit and picnic table (most have multiple). Access is always from a sandy or pebble beach.
All food and smelly items (toothpaste, other toiletries, trash etc) should be stored in the metal food caches overnight and when not in use.
The campgrounds are designed to be shared, with some offering semi-private tent spots while others feature a larger open area.
Some paddlers prefer to camp on the beaches rather than around the picnic tables that indicate the designated campsites.
Before leaving for your trip, be sure to check whether there is a fire ban. Both lakes are located in the Kamloops Fire Centre region.
Caribou Beach Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 1.5km
Approximate capacity: 3 sites / 7 tents
Caribou Beach is the first campground on Clearwater Lake. Contrary to the official BC Parks map, it is located about 1.5km northwest of the boat launch (not directly opposite).
The campground features three nicely separated camping areas. It is, however, very close to the boat launch so receives more day visitors and noise.
There is space for two tents in the north and middle sites. The south campsite is a little more rustic (the table is slightly rotten) with less tenting space. Each site has beach access.
Divers Bluff Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 5.7km
Approximate capacity: 4 sites / 7-8 tents
Thrill seekers love to jump from the large cliffs just around the corner from the Divers Bluff Campground (also the deepest part of Clearwater Lake).
The beach area was quite limited when we visited in mid-July, a stark contrast to the expansive camping area behind it. It is one of the few campgrounds with two food caches, so I assume that it gets busy during peak times.
The open area doesn’t offer much privacy so if you prefer a quieter experience, perhaps give this campground a miss.
While there are few lake views from the campground, Divers Bluff is host to the Eagle’s View Trail. This short, uphill path leads to a beautiful lookout over Clearwater Lake.
Stellar’s Bay Campground (guided groups only), Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 6.8km
Stellar’s Bay is located just a few kilometres north of Divers Bluff Campground and is permitted for use by guided paddling groups only.
Bar View Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 8.3km
Approximate capacity: 5 sites, 9-10 tents
Bar View is one of the largest campgrounds on Clearwater Lake. It is also the first campground situated on the eastern lakeshore when approaching from the boat launch.
There is a total of five sites at Bar View Campground. Trees separate the three most southern sites, offering significant privacy. These spots are perfect for couples as there isn’t a lot of tent space.
The other two sites are located much closer together but share a larger beach area. One is particularly large, with space for three or four tents. Thankfully, this is another campground that provides two food caches.
Ivor Creek Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 10.5km
Approximate capacity: 4 sites, 7-8 tents
Ivor Creek is the only canoe-only campground on Clearwater Lake. That means that powerboat users should not camp here.
A highlight of Ivor Creek is the long sandy beach that stretches all the way along the camping area. On the north side is the surprisingly fast namesake creek.
The campground is a little sprawling, with campsites being situated at different levels – one sits close to the beach while the others are scattered higher up in the bordering forest.
Ivor Creek is a favourite of many Clearwater Lake paddlers. I personally found the camping area a little dark and gloomy. The beach is, however, definitely one of the best.
Huckleberry Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 12.7km
Approximate capacity: 5 sites, 11-12 tents
Huckleberry is another sprawling campground on Clearwater Lake’s eastern shore. Also like Ivor Creek, it features a beautiful long beach (though a little narrower).
Situated at lake level, most of the campsites at Huckleberry enjoy wonderful lake and mountain views. I can see that flooding may be an issue when the lake is high (June, early July).
There are five total campsites, each offering space for two tents at a minimum. Those on the southern side are the most private but are also smaller.
Archer Creek Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 14.8km
Approximate capacity: 4 sites, 7-8 tents
Located on a point on the western side of Clearwater Lake, Archer Creek showcases gorgeous views of the mountains surrounding Azure Lake. It also has a beautiful sandy beach.
Archer Creek has a total of 4 sites, each well-defined and separated from the others. The first is behind the main beach, with another just to the south and two more tucked away on the northern side.
The premium views and campsite separation make Archer Creek our favourite campground on Clearwater Lake. Situated roughly two-thirds of the way up the lake, it’s an ideal stopover point when travelling to/from Azure Lake.
Huntley View Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 18.3km
Approximate capacity: 1 site, 3-4 tents
Situated just a little further north along the western shore of Clearwater Lake, Huntley View is a smaller version of Archer Creek Campground.
Like Archer Creek, the sandy beach offers vistas of the mountains surrounding Azure Lake, which, of course, includes the namesake 2429m high Mount Huntley.
Huntley View Campground offers just one single site, with a picnic table and fire pit. There is space for up to 4 small tents.
Barella Creek Campground, Clearwater Lake
Distance from boat launch to campground: 20.1km
Approximate capacity: 2 sites, 3-4 tents
Barella Creek is quite different to any other backcountry campgrounds in this area. The main camping area is set back from the lake and is surrounded by a mix of shrubs and smaller trees, rather than thick forest.
A narrow dirt path leads through wetland foliage into camp, with boardwalk access to the food cache and outhouse. There is a muggy feeling overall, even on dry days.
There is a beach but it was limited in size during our mid-July visit. For all of these reasons, Barella Creek is my least favourite campground on either lake. I wouldn’t choose to stay here.
Indian Point Campground
Distance from boat launch to campground: 24.3km
Approximate capacity: 1 site, 1-2 tents
Occupying a small peninsula in the western corner of Azure Lake, Indian Point is a compact campground with very limited tent space.
The camping area is quite rocky but offers great views of the lake. This is a wonderful destination for a couple.
The campground is only a short distance from the portage exit. It is an ideal place for tired paddlers to stop. Note that the entrance is located on the southwestern side of the point (hard to see from the portage).
Indian Bay Campground
Distance from boat launch to the campground: 24.5km
Approximate capacity: 2 sites, 3-4 tents (if open)
I am not 100% sure whether Indian Bay is an operating campground – it does not appear on any maps and had a ‘closed facility’ sign on our 2024 visit (but other campgrounds also did due to wildfire risk).
Indian Bay campground sits directly opposite the exit/entrance of the portage on Azure Lake. That would make it a convenient destination for tired paddlers who have just completed the portage.
There are only two sites, both located close to the water. There is no separation between them. The beach is not that nice as it consists mostly of dirt and rock rather than sand.
Osprey Campground
Distance from boat launch to campground: 28.7km
Approximate capacity: 2 sites, 3-4 tents
Osprey is a canoe-only campground, so powerboat users are not allowed to stay here. It is located on the south side of Azure Lake, only an hour or so away from the portage exit.
Relatively small, Osprey Campground has only two sites. They are located close together in the forest, just behind the relatively wide pebble beach. The views across to Mount Huntley and surrounding peaks are superb.
We found Osprey an advantageous place to stay after completing the portage and before paddling to Rainbow Falls.
Four and a Half Mile Campground
Distance from boat launch to campground: 28.9km
Approximate capacity: 3 sites, 6-8 tents
Four and a Half Mile Campground sits on the northern side of Azure Lake, almost opposite Osprey Campground. The camping area is found immediately behind the beach and is also quite sandy.
There are three sites in total, with one separated from the others (more privacy). The fire pits are right on the beach and have spectacular views of the mountains on the other side of the lake.
The challenging route up to Huntley Col starts on the left-hand side of the sites. Like Osprey, Four and a Half Mile is convenient when paddling between the portage and Rainbow Falls.
Rainbow Falls Campground
Distance from boat launch to campground: 43.1km
Approximate capacity: 7 sites, 20+
Situated at the eastern end of Azure Lake, Rainbow Falls should be the most isolated and quiet of all backcountry campgrounds in this area.
Unfortunately, it is a very popular powerboat destination, receiving lots of overnight and day visitors. Canoeists also get dropped here by the water taxi and often stay for at least one night. Plan to arrive as early as you can to secure a spot.
The campground itself is beautiful – six sites spread along a long, wide beach, with another huge site on a peninsula next to the creek. There is an old trapper’s cabin between the two.
The peninsula camping area is referred to as a ‘group site.’ This campsite is massive, with space for 8-9 tents behind the beach plus a dedicated food cache and outhouse.
Powerful (and loud!) Rainbow Falls sits not far up the creek and is accessible via an easy trail through lush cedar forest. The fishing is said to be very good in the creek (we had no luck).
Portage and river paddle
The Clearwater/Azure Lake canoe trip experience is straightforward with just one exception – the 3km Clearwater River section that runs from Azure Lake to Clearwater Lake.
Paddlers have a few options here:
- Stay on Clearwater Lake only
- Paddle 1km upstream and then portage 500m
- Paddle 3km upstream (not permitted by BC Parks)
- Take the water taxi service to the end of Azure Lake (see below for more details)
The water taxi service seems popular. Having more time than money (and a lot of curiosity!), we decided to try the portage route.
River section
With the Clearwater River running around 10km/h during our visit, we needed a steady, strong rhythm to make our way upstream.
We took a break in an eddy to the southwest of the first island. From there, we lined the canoe to the east side of the island and then caught a few more eddies to reach the north side.
The final approach involved another 5 minutes of paddling to reach the calm lagoon in front of the portage.
In total, it took us 40 minutes to paddle from the river entrance to the portage take-out. It is definitely a grind and something that I’m not sure novice paddlers could do at that time of the year. The river is slower in August and September.
We met a paddler who had attempted the upstream paddle with his teenage son and found the experience difficult.
Having said that, we also met some canoeists who managed to paddle all the way up the river (no portage) on a day trip from Archer Creek. They said it was very hard.
The return journey along the Clearwater River, from Azure to Clearwater, is generally undemanding. Canoes have the right of way.
The river is relatively deep, so we stayed in the middle, away from sweepers (a tree or other obstacle that hangs into the river). It took us only 20 minutes to travel the full 3km length of the river.
Portage
The portage between the Clearwater River and Azure Lake is only 500m long.
But it is not a flat portage – there is a set of 16 stairs, lots of tree roots, rock obstacles, narrow sections and an uneven boardwalk. A canoe cart cannot be used.
There is a canoe rest at both trailhead locations and another at the halfway point.
JR has completed many canoe portages (in BC, Ontario and Nova Scotia) and said he didn’t think it was difficult.
If you’ve only ever done flat portages, however, I can see that this portage would be considered hard.
The most challenging part of the portage was the mosquitoes. It was SO buggy on our visit, so much so that we were practically running when returning for our second portage (we double-carried our gear).
If I did the portage again, I would have my mosquito head net ready before landing.
Be sure to bring bear spray as we encountered a black bear (more details).
Water taxi
Clearwater Lake Tours, a privately operated company, provides water taxi rides to various locations on Clearwater and Azure lakes.
This a good option if you want to explore both lakes but are short on time. I can also see it being popular with families and novice canoeists concerned about paddling long distances.
Rainbow Falls is an ideal drop-off location. Most spend at least one night at the campground before paddling back to Clearwater Lake (around 44km).
There is a four person minimum for the water taxi service. Included is the transportation of a ‘reasonable amount of gear.’ For two people that would be considered two backpacks, a cooler, a tent and an additional storage container.
Clearwater Lake Tours offers canoe rentals – see the next section for more details. There is a $30 charge for transporting your canoe or kayak via the water taxi.
2024 water taxi price list (subject to change)
| Destination | Cost per person (+ 5% GST) |
| Hobson trailhead | $165 |
| Portage trail | $165 |
| Indian Point, Azure Lake | $180 |
| 4 and a Half Mile, Azure Lake | $185 |
| Rainbow Falls | $210 |
Canoe rentals
Don’t have a canoe or would prefer not to transport your own to Wells Gray? No problem!
Clearwater Lake Tours rents canoes and double kayaks from a lakeside location just south of the main boat launch area. Rentals include PFDs (lifejackets), safety gear and paddles.
When choosing between a kayak or canoe, consider that canoes are both easier to portage and pack than a kayak. Canoes are typically more stable than kayaks.
On the other hand, kayaks have better gear protection from rain (the storage area is covered) and are generally faster to paddle.
While kayaks and canoes are similarly suitable for paddling the lakes, most multi-day visitors use canoes.
2024 canoe and kayak rentals price list (subject to change)
| Type of rental | Price (+12% GST and PST) |
| 1 day canoe rental | $85 |
| 2 day canoe rental | $150 |
| 3 day canoe rental | $210 |
| 4 day canoe rental | $225 |
| 5 to 7 day canoe rental | $260 |
| 1 day double kayak rental | $100 |
| 2 day double kayak rental | $180 |
| 3 day double kayak rental | $250 |
| 4 day double kayak rental | $265 |
| 5 to 7 day double kayak rental | $335 |
Clearwater Lake Tours also offers camping and fishing gear rentals – contact them directly for more information.
Hiking opportunities
Combine your paddling trip with some hiking. The following trails can only accessed from the lakes.
We only hiked to Rainbow Falls on our recent trip as weather conditions were very hot and then smoky.
- Eagles’s View Trail, 3km return – Short but uphill path to a viewpoint overlooking Clearwater Lake. Steep at the end. The trail starts by the outhouse in the Divers Bluff Campground.
- Hobson Trail, 13km one way – Unmaintained portage trail from the western bank of Clearwater River to Hobson Lake. Some BC Parks sources state 15km instead of 13km. The rough route stays close to the Clearwater River and features 300m elevation gain.
- Huntley Col, 4km one way – Very steep route (1300m elevation gain!) up into the alpine above Azure Lake. Most often used by climbers to reach a base camp area. Expect loose, slippery surfaces and lots of bugs. The trailhead is located on the west side of Four and a Half Mile Campground.
- Rainbow Falls, 1km return – Short, easy trail through old-growth cedar forest to a viewpoint in front of the powerful waterfall. There is an additional unmaintained route leading to the side of the falls (some scrambling required).
Wildlife
Wells Gray is home to a variety of animals, including black and grizzly bears, cougars, deer, caribou, wolves, weasels, minks, and more. Over 200 species of birds are found in the park.
It is a special experience to see wildlife. We’ve spent around three weeks in the park in the last few years and have only seen a bear once (on the portage between Clearwater and Azure lakes).
To avoid negative encounters and impacts, be sure to Leave No Trace (pack out what you bring in, clean up after meals) and make noise to warn animals of your presence.
Some of the most prevalent (and annoying!) creatures in Wells Gray Park are mosquitoes, biting flies, blackies and no-see-ums. June is considered the worst month.
We encountered all four of these types of bugs on our July trip but thankfully not all at the same time. And none while paddling.
Our experience was really variable. For example, we saw a lot of biting flies during one afternoon at Osprey and then never again. We saw blackflies only at Rainbow Falls and no-see-ums at Archer Creek.
For the most part, we didn’t find the bugs too bad. We’ve had much more intense experiences elsewhere. We sporadically applied insect repellent and used our bug shelter in the worst areas (Osprey). I brought a head net with us but didn’t use it.
The only place where the mosquitoes were truly terrible was on the Clearwater River portage.W e walked very quickly and still got plenty of bites.
Safety
Although a well-travelled area, this paddling trip is located in remote mountainous terrain. Paddlers should be completely self-reliant.
For reference, it takes around 10-12 hours to paddle non-stop from the Rainbow Falls Campground back to the Clearwater Lake boat launch in favourable paddling conditions.
The park facility operator (PFO, contracted by BC Parks) uses a power boat to tour the lakes and campsites regularly but does not visit every day.
To help stay safe, keep the following in mind:
- There is no phone signal on Clearwater/Azure lakes, or at the boat launch. We carried an InReach device in case of emergencies.
- Always tell someone where you’re going and when you plan to be back (check out our outdoor safety guide for more tips).
- Due to the surrounding mountains, weather conditions can vary and change quickly. Thunderstorms are common during hot weather.
- Both lakes are large and therefore susceptible to strong wind gusts. Wind can also build up surprisingly quickly, causing choppy conditions on the lake. This happens most often in the afternoon but can occur at any time of day.
- Beyond the campgrounds, be aware that there are not many places to pull off and rest in the case of bad weather. This is particularly true for Azure, as it has a steeper shoreline.
- As already mentioned, I would recommend paying for your backcountry permit online. This registers your group in the parks system, which can be beneficial in the event of an emergency.
- Remain alert for wildlife. Make noise to alert animals of your presence. Store food and smelly items in the campsite food caches overnight and when not in use.
- If you do see wildlife, be sure to give them plenty of space. Do not approach, follow, scare or feed animals.
- Know what to do if a bear approaches you. Always remain calm. Depending on the behaviour of the bear, different techniques are required (read our bear safety post for more info).
Essential items
In addition to your choice of canoe or kayak, safety equipment and standard camping gear, be sure to bring these items on your Clearwater Lake paddling adventure!
Backcountry permit. All overnight paddlers must have a valid backcountry permit to stay on Clearwater Lake and Azure Lake. Register online and print two copies of your permit. As described above, fill out a registration form at the boat launch and include one of the printed permits.
Mosquito repellent – I’ve mentioned this a couple of times, but Wells Gray is pretty buggy in certain areas. Be sure to bring your repellent of choice – Deep Woods spray, a deet-free alternative or a Thermacell appliance.
Mosquito head net. Consider a head net if you’re particularly sensitive to biting insects and are visiting in June/July. Of course, bring antihistamines too.
Fishing licence – If you plan to go fishing on either lake, purchase your licence online at home (or in person from a Licence Vendor) and then bring a printed copy. Be sure to check the relevant fishing regulations first – both lakes are in Region 3.
Camp chairs – Each backcountry site has picnic tables but if you’d like to sit comfortably on the beach or by the campfire (if no fire ban), consider bringing a couple of camp chairs. We love our Helinox Chair Ones – each one weighs just 900g (2lbs).
Bear spray – Black and grizzly bears live in Wells Gray Provincial Park. When on land, always remain alert and make noise. Be sure to store food, smelly items and trash in the campground food caches. Bear spray is a good ‘just in case’ item to have. Use a holster to keep it handy on the portage.
Cooking stove – Campfires are permitted in designated fire rings, as long as there is no fire ban. Even if you plan to cook on the fire, always bring a lightweight cooking stove as a backup.
Worthwhile items to bring
Tarp/screened bug shelter – Whether you need to use it for rain or shade, a lightweight tarp is a nice thing to have on a Clearwater canoe trip. Visiting in July (a buggier month), we went one step further and brought our screened bug shelter which includes a tarp.
Hammock – I always enjoy the chance to relax off the ground while on canoe trips. We used our ENO double hammock every day (usually inside our screened bug shelter). It is both lightweight and fairly small to pack.
Portage pad – Never portaged before? The portage between Clearwater and Azure Lake is short but you’ll be glad to have a portage pad for some extra shoulder comfort.
Satellite communication device – There is zero phone signal on either lake. For emergency purposes, we carried an InReach device. With wildfires becoming so common, the usefulness of this device is pushing it towards the ‘essential’ category.
If you need any last minute items, the independently owned and operated Wells Gray Outfitters is located right at the start of the Wells Gray Corridor (Clearwater Valley Road).
Other things to do in Wells Gray Provincial Park
A Clearwater/Azure Lake canoe trip is just one reason to visit the huge wilderness area that is Wells Gray Provincial Park.
Clearwater Lake is situated at the very end of the 68km long Wells Gray Corridor (Clearwater Valley Road).
This driving route takes in 12 spectacular waterfalls and offers access to alpine hiking (including the beautiful Trophy Meadows), historical sites, vehicle-accessible campgrounds and more.
I’d recommend spending at least one extra night in the park to explore the highlights of the Corridor.
My must-see highlights for Clearwater Lake paddlers would be:
- Spahats Creek Falls (allow 30 minutes visit time)
- Dawson Falls (30 to 50 minutes)
- Helmcken Falls (10 to 20 minutes for main viewpoint area)
- Osprey Falls (20 minutes)
Clearwater Lake Campground is located just a few kilometres south of the boat launch. It hosts 40 reservable vehicle-accessible campsites. There are coin operated showers ($2 coins only).
Falls Creek Campground is also situated close by and has 41 reservable campsites. We secured a site on a weekday without a reservation. If you also decide to take a chance, I’d suggest looking for a site before 3pm. It can get busy after that.
Both Falls Creek and Clearwater Lake campgrounds are within easy walking distance of the Osprey Café. Operated by Clearwater Lake Tours, the cafe serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Wi-fi is available for a fee ($4 for one hour).
Pyramid Campground is a first come, first serve campground located further south along the Corridor, very near to Helmcken Falls.
Buggier than the other campgrounds, Pyramid is also much less popular. We’ve visited during weekends in August before and it was 70% empty!
Other multi-day canoe trips you may be interested in:
Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit, British Columbia
Kejimkujik National Park, Nova Scotia
Slocan Lake, Valhalla Provincial Park, British Columbia
Sayward Forest Canoe Circuit, British Columbia
Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario
Della Falls, Strathcona Provincial Park, British Columbia
Powell Forest Canoe Route, British Columbia
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One half of the Canadian/British couple behind Off Track Travel, Gemma is happiest when hiking on the trail or planning the next big travel adventure. JR and Gemma are currently based in the beautiful Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. Consider buying us a coffee if you have find any of our guides helpful!