Alert Bay (‘Yalis), British Columbia: Best Things to Do and See

Alert Bay, also known as ‘Yalis, is one of British Columbia’s most unique travel destinations.

Welcoming, culturally rich and outstandingly beautiful, this island community offers solitude, discovery and all the ocean breezes you could ever want.

Add the excellent odds of seeing wildlife (orcas, humpbacks, sea otters, eagles and more) and Alert Bay is a must visit. Located on Cormorant Island, Alert Bay is the perfect day trip from Port McNeill.

Best of all, you don’t even need to bring a vehicle. It’s easy to explore most areas on foot or by bike.

JR and I have visited many of the Gulf Islands between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland; Alert Bay is a definite favourite of ours.

I love the blend of stunning ocean scenery, First Nations culture, friendly community feel, secluded location and abundant wildlife watching opportunities. If this sounds interesting to you, I think you’d probably enjoy a visit to Alert Bay!

This post shares the best things to do in Alert Bay, based on our first hand experiences on multiple visits.

If you have any questions after reading this guide, join our BC and Alberta Travel Tips Facebook group and we can chat more about beautiful Alert Bay.

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Alert Bay, British Columbia

Alert Bay is a community located on Cormorant Island in the Queen Charlotte Strait. 1,300 people live on the island, which is 4.9km long and 0.8km wide.

About half of the population are ‘Namgis First Nation. The Whe-la-la-u and Area Council represents four other Kwakwaka’wakw groups on the island as well.

Alert Bay is a 45 minute ferry ride away from Port McNeill on North Vancouver Island. Most locals refer to Cormorant Island and Alert Bay synonymously, so I will do the same in this guide.

Why visit Alert Bay? Looking beyond the obvious island appeal (ocean views, wildlife sightings, beautiful coastal walking paths), this destination is a hub for First Nation culture.

The collection of publicly displayed totem poles and other artworks in Alert Bay are wonderful to see. The U’mista Cultural Centre is one of the longest operating First Nation facilities of its kind in BC. It protects sacred potlatch artifacts that were previously seized by the government.

To add to that, Alert Bay remains one of the friendliest places I have ever visited. On our first trip in 2014, people waved at us from vehicles, offered help in shops, and started conversations on the street.

While our recent trip was shorter (we were on our way back from neighbouring Sointula (Malcolm Island), we felt the same welcoming vibe. We enjoyed more conversations with locals and we were even invited to watch a memorial totem pole being completed outside of U’mista.

A quick history of Alert Bay/‘Yalis

‘Yalis, or what we now call Alert Bay, was visited seasonally for thousands of years by the Kwakwaka’wakw people (pronounced KWOK-wok-ya-wokw). It was used as a summer fish camp, berry picking destination and rest stop when travelling between villages.

By the mid 1800s, the Kwakwaka’wakw consisted of 30 different tribes, one of which was the ‘Namgis.

The ‘Namgis people originally lived at the mouth of the Namgis River on Vancouver Island, now also known as the Nimpkish River. Salmon, herring and cod were abundant in that area.

In 1792, the ‘Namgis chief, Cheslakee met Captain George Vancouver. Not long after, the surrounding area became a destination for European traders. Cormorant Island and the new European settlement of Alert Bay were named after British navy ships.

A small fish saltery was built on Cormorant Island in 1870. It would later become a large canning facility. Following the saltery construction, the ‘Namgis established a permanent village at ‘Yalis.

Over the following years, Alert Bay became a commercial fishing and trading town, with both settlers and ‘Namgis people working in the industry.

An Anglican mission was established in Alert Bay in 1877, along with a day school. A residential school for Indigenous children followed. This was replaced by a larger facility, St Michael’s Residential School, in 1929. It eventually closed in 1974.

If you don’t know much about Canada’s residential school system, please take the time to learn before visiting Alert Bay. The building was demolished in 2015 and ‘Namgis members performed a land blessing ceremony shortly after.

Alert Bay map

The best things to do in Alert Bay

Here are our top recommendations for the best things to do in Sointula. Each recommendation is tried and tetsed with the exception of the whale watching tour (but we spotted whales on the ferry!)

Walk Alert Bay’s waterfront pathway

Take in the beauty of the incredible ocean scenery around Alert Bay from the waterfront pathway. There are a few different sections to the route, with a long wooden boardwalk stretch and other paved areas.

All in all, there is a waterfront walking path almost all the way from U’Mista Cultural Centre to the ‘Namgis Original Burial Grounds, a distance of 1.8km (with the ferry dock located roughly in the middle). A small portion by U’Mista is on the road.

Along the way, check out the stilt buildings along the waterfront, bald eagles soaring in the sky (and sometimes resting on the beach!), heritage houses and decorated awakwes. The latter are post and beam shelters with ‘Namgis Ancestor carvings with interpretive signage.

While exploring the waterfront boardwalk, stop in at the Culture Shock Gallery. This friendly business sells Indigenous artwork, clothing and gifts. They also make the best coffee in town.

Visit the U’mista Cultural Centre

The U’mista Cultural Centre is a must see while visiting Alert Bay. This First Nations operated facility was established in 1980 with the aim to preserve the living culture and heritage of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people.

The main exhibit displays potlatch items (many of them ceremonial masks) that were originally confiscated by the Government of Canada in 1921.

The Kwakwaka’wakw people fought to have these sacred items returned from institutions around the world. Please note that photography is not allowed in this specific exhibit (but allowed elsewhere).

Another display shares a little about St. Michael’s Residential School, which was built in Alert Bay in 1929 (adjacent to where U’mista stands now).

One of the travelling exhibits on our visit shared the story of ethnomusicologist Dr. Ida Halpern and the late Kwakwaka’wakw Chiefs Billy Assu and Mungo Martin to document traditional songs which would have otherwise been lost.

Admission to U’mista is $15/adult (discounts for seniors and youth) and is valid for a full year. Even the exterior of the U’mista facility is interesting – be sure to check out the various carved totem poles (more information in this online brochure).

See the World’s Tallest Totem Pole

Not far from U’mista is the World’s Tallest Totem Pole. Soaring into the sky, this totem pole is an incredible 52 metres high.

Completed in the later 60s and raised in the 70s, it was once even taller but a wind storm caused the top three metres to fall to the ground.

While many totem poles represent a family or individual, this totem pole depicts several different Kwakwaka’wakw groups. Each carved figure has an important meaning – the bear holding a salmon, for example, symbolises the group’s pride in the land.

The World’s Tallest Totem Pole is 750m from the U’mista Culture Centre, next to the Alert Bay Big House. It’s a ten minute walk from U’mista through a ‘Namgis First Nation neighbourhood (parking is available too).

We spoke to some locals outside U’mista who told us that they were planning to build another totem pole, an even taller version, as the current one has some stability issues.

Go whale watching

Alert Bay is known as the ‘Home of the Orca.‘ From June to October, the 200 strong Northern resident orca group roam the waters in and around nearby Johnstone Strait. Add to this the transient (Biggs) population and summer orca sightings are not uncommon!

Humpbacks and minke whales also pass by relatively often – indeed, we saw humpbacks on both ferry sailings on our most recent Alert Bay trip. Other marine wildlife sightings include sea otters, seals, white-sided dolphins, Dall’s porpoise and sealions.

Wildlife sightings are, of course, never guaranteed but for the best chance, join one of Seasmoke’s whale watching boat tours. This Alert Bay based company operates mid June to mid September, with twice daily departures during the peak part of the season season.

The small boat tours are usually around three hours long and have 12 passengers maximum (no need to struggle to see the view!)

Explore the Alert Bay Ecological Park

The Alert Bay Ecological Park lies at the top of the hill, not too far from the island’s ferry dock. The highlight of the park is the boardwalk that runs right through the middle of it; other trails run around the perimeter.

The open, marshy landscape is filled with life despite the tree skeletons. Totally different from anywhere else in Alert Bay, the Ecological Park is particularly great destination for bird watchers and botanists (or anyone who wants to stretch their legs inland!)

The Alert Bay Ecological Park has an unusual origin. When the island’s main fish saltery was transitioned to a fish canning facility, a dam was built on the hill to store freshwater. The already boggy area flooded, causing the destruction of the trees and the creation of this new ecosystem.

Access the park from E Hemlock St or the Alert Bay Campground. There is another trailhead by the Cabins at Alert Bay as well.

View the ‘Namgis Original Burial Grounds

Centuries old, the ‘Namgis Original Burial Grounds is a sacred area in Alert Bay. Most of the intricately carved and painted totem poles commemorate family members who have passed away.

Some of the memorial totems were built to remember larger groups of people. A Haida Mortuary pole, for example, honours the 300 Haida people who were quarantined east of Alert Bay during the smallpox epidemic of 1862.

Please respect the wishes of the local community and view the burial grounds from the street only. The paved sidewalk area provides an unobstructed view. For more details on the poles, pick up a paper copy of this totem pole brochure at the Visitor Centre.

The current ‘Namgis burial grounds are located near the World’s Tallest Totem Pole. Again, if you choose to visit, be sure to stay on the street.

Visit the Alert Bay Museum and tour local historical buildings

Alert Bay is a small place with a lot of history. To complement a visit to U’mista, consider a trip to the Alert Bay Museum. Located at the back of the library, this little museum has a mix of First Nation and settler exhibits.

Next door to the museum is the Alert Bay Visitor Centre. It’s a really friendly place and will provide you with all the information you need to explore the island. The Visitor Centre, Library and Museum are all situated in the old fire hall (the tower was used to dry fire hoses).

If local history is your jam, take some extra time to tour the exterior of Alert Bay’s historical buildings. This online brochure has a good overview of the places to look out for and there is some interpretive signage on the streets as well.

Across from the museum is a bright yellow two storey building – now a private residence, this property was once the police HQ and courthouse. The blue property next to it was the customs building.

Alert Bay: Essential details

Now that we’ve narrowed down what to do while visiting Alert Bay, let’s get into how to get there, where to stay on a longer trip and the best places to eat.

How to get to Alert Bay

Alert Bay is accessible via ferry only, unless you have your own boat or are a good kayak paddler!

There are multiple daily ferry crossings operated BC Ferries from Port McNeill.

The one-way ferry journey takes around 45 minutes and the fare (currently $11.60/adult, $26.80/regular vehicle) is for a return journey. There is an Experience Card discount available.

Foot passengers, bikes (both pedal and motor) and vehicles are all welcome on the ferry, though space is more limited for oversize vehicles.

The ferry has multiple decks with unobstructed views of the ocean, Vancouver Island and Alert Bay itself. There is some sheltered seating.

There is a high chance to see marine wildlife on the ferry to Alert Bay in the summer months. We spottedd humpback whales and sea otters.

There are no reservations available for this ferry route. With a vehicle, I’d recommend getting to the ferry terminal at least 30 minutes before the sailing during the summer months, earlier if you are driving a RV or other large vehicle.

Visiting Alert Bay on foot or bike

If you are only visiting Alert Bay for the day and are comfortable exploring on foot or bike, consider not bringing a vehicle.

Alert Bay’s biggest attractions are within 1.7km of the the ferry terminal and the community is pretty walkable (with the exception of the inland hills).

Even for overnight trips, you may not find it necessary to bring a vehicle. But be sure check the location of your accommodation first! The Cabins at Alert Bay, for example, are 2.5km from the ferry (a long distance with luggage).

Combining Sointula and Alert Bay

Want to visit nearby Malcolm Island (Sointula) as well as Alert Bay? Yes, you can! There are a few things to know, however.

Although these islands use the same ferry, there are very few sailings connecting the two destinations. For most of the schedule, the ferry travels back and forth to Port McNeill between stops.

The best way to do visit both islands is to head to Sointula first and Alert Bay second. With this method, you can visit both for the price of one return ticket!

When the ferry returns to Port McNeill after leaving Sointula, vehicle users need to exit the ferry completely and return to the ticket booth (a U-turn). Advise the staff you are ‘turning around.’ They will wave you back into the ferry line-up again and you will re-load the same ferry to Alert Bay.

On a busy days, it is possible that vehicle users may not be able to get right back on the next ferry sailing as it is space dependent. We were able to do it without issue in late August.

As mentioned, there is only one fare required for this double destination trip. We paid for our return ticket to Sointula and our ‘turnaround’ fare to Alert Bay was included.

Due to the length of time spent on the ferry and schedule restrictions, I would only recommend visiting both Sointula and Alert Bay in one day if you start very early. It is a better option for people who are spending at least one night on Sointula or Alert Bay.

For ideas of things to do on Sointula (or to help decide if you want to see both islands), head to our dedicated guide!

Where to stay in Alert Bay

The brightly coloured Nimpkish Hotel is located right on the ocean. Most of the nine rooms have balconies/decks with ocean views. Two are wheelchair accessible. The on-site restaurant makes dining easy.

The Seine Boat Inn is the closest accommodation to Alert Bay’s ferry dock (just 200m away!) There are a range of rooms to choose from, most with ocean views. This waterfront property is highly rated for being exceptionally clean and comfortable.

Situated in a cedar log cabin that was once a church, Alert Bay Lodge is definitely a unique place to stay while visiting Alert Bay. There are four rooms (one with ocean views) and a cosy shared Great Room. A hot breakfast is included.

The Cabins at Alert Bay are located on the eastern side of the island, close to the East Trail that connects with the main Ecological Boardwalk. The cute cabins have everything you need for a short trip as well as ocean views from some of the private decks.

Other options include the Orca Inn and cosy vacation rentals like Cliff Haven on the Bay and Alert Bay Sweet Home. Since accommodation is limited in Alert Bay, I’d recommend making a reservation.

For an island of this size, Alert Bay has quite an impressive campground! Situated by the Ecological Park, the Alert Bay Campground is open from early April to late September and features 31 sites. There are paid showers.

Reservations are available online, with RV spots $35/night and tent sites $20/night. On our most recent late August trip on a weekday, the campground was around two thirds full.

Where to eat in Alert Bay

• Gordie’s Restaurant & Lounge is an Indigenous owned business serving lunch and dinner. The menu featuring pub classics (burgers, wings, fish and chips, caesar salad) and a good choice of seafood appetisers.
• The Nimpkish Hotel Restaurant has an outdoor deck with beautiful ocean views. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, with a varied global themed menu (curries, fish and chips, burgers, Chinese dishes).
• The Orca Inn has a characterful pub with burgers, pizza and appetisers. There is live music on some Saturdays. The pub is usually open for lunch and dinner.
• The Bayside Inn is another local food option and is very close to the ferry dock. They have classic pub meals as well as some Indian dishes (curries, samosas etc)

Please note that restaurant operating hours can be limited, especially in the off season (October to April). I would suggest bringing your own breakfast or double checking whether your accommodation provides any if staying overnight.

There is a small grocery store as backup- the Shop Rite & Rona. It is very close to the Visitor Centre.

Just looking for coffee? The Culture Shock Gallery makes the best java in town! They have chilled versions too, perfect for hot days on the island.