The highlight of our trip so far: five days paddling around Desolation Sound, on BC’s Sunshine Coast. Captain Vancouver wasn’t too impressed with the area when he discovered it, but we were. Quite the opposite of desolation, the area is teeming with life and beauty, and we timed our visit exactly right. We experienced amazing weather, few people (in July/August it is absolutely teeming with kayakers and boaters), and some of the best scenery you’ll see anywhere on the West Coast. It lived up to expectations and then some.
While planning our trip, I couldn’t find much information regarding canoeing Desolation Sound. Kayaking yes, there are kayaks a plenty in photos, blog, online trip reports, brochures…but no canoes. So I had a bit of apprehension even as we were putting the canoe into the water in Okeover Harbour. Although I was perfectly sure of our skills, I thought maybe I was missing something, a big reason why people nowadays don’t tend to canoe oceans.
The first small craft we see along Malaspina Inlet after leaving the harbour? Yep, a canoe. It may have been the one and only canoe we saw for the rest of the trip, but now I was assured that we weren’t completely nuts. Others may still have done though; we got quite a few inquisitive looks and a fair few ‘you paddled here in a canoe?’ comments. I can now confirm, not only can you do it easily, but canoeing Desolation Sound is also pretty awesome.
So why is Desolation Sound so special? For me, it’s the beautiful (warm-ish!) turquoise water, the rich variety of wildlife both above and below the sea, the sheltered coves, the rocky headlands, and most of all, the spectacular backdrop of white capped mountains.I loved the drier climate and foliage too; so many arbutus trees and shrubs instead of the dark, damp forests we’ve spent so much time in. The contrast between our time in the Powell Forest only the week before and then on Desolation Sound couldn’t have been more different…..yet we weren’t even 60km away!
The best thing of all? No clear cuts! It’s a sad thing, but on the West Coast we expect to see evidence of logging wherever we go. Instead, it was trees, mountains and ocean as far as our eyes could see.
Heading out to the Sound, we knew that the longest days would be the first and last, as we needed to do around 20km to get to the Curme Islands, our base camp for the trip. Of course, we could have moved around more, but we’d just finished the Powell Forest Canoe Circuit, and were looking forward to being a bit lazy after all that portaging. With no real plans after the Desolation Sound trip (and lots of food!), we had the freedom of coming back whenever we wanted. In my mind, this meant when the weather turned.
The wind and currents were on our side heading out, so we took it slowly and spent some time fishing and generally just floating around. We caught a few rockfish, keeping the biggest (mine, I seem to have some untapped skill at fishing, who knew?) for dinner.
I met a nice sea star called Monty and then before I knew it we were heading around the peninsula, out of Malaspina Inlet and into the open ocean. After a few hours of easy paddling, it was land ahoy at the Curme Islands, and we quickly claimed the last available one as our own. Sorry, ocean canoeing always makes me feel like a pirate.
With no portages and a weight restriction of around 600lbs in our canoe, we had brought a fair amount of luxuries with us, including snorkelling gear, beer and barbeque ribs. Can you tell it was Jean Robert’s birthday? While fishing isn’t allowed in Desolation Sound, collection of mussels and oysters is fine…something that is also quite fine with JR. Practically a birthday gift from the sea I think.
We didn’t just spend the whole time eating and sunbathing though; one day we paddled to Tenedos Bay and hiked over to Unwin Lake for a swim, and the next we followed the Provincial Park boundary to the eastern edge for more mountain vistas.
Sadly, a quick exit on the fifth day was made after hearing on our weather radio that gale force winds were coming in. That and we were also running out of suncream. Needless to say, the waves fought us all the way back, and it was a pretty rough crossing. We experienced swells of up to around a metre and a half…which, if you’re in the front, can get you pretty wet! Let’s just say I was quite happy to get back into the calm waters of the Malaspina Inlet. It was tough, but it looked bad for anyone out on the water that day, larger boats included!
This was the perfect canoe trip; lots of paddling and relaxation, great food, awesome scenery, plenty of exploring and, of course, beautiful weather (five days of 25 degree sunshine, the epitome of perfect to me). Our camp was superbly placed for views of the Sound; we watched seals lounging and playing on the rocks, bald eagles flying from island to island, oyster catchers searching for food, the occasional boater heading for an anchorage, and the endless motion of the tides coming in and out.
We had the place to ourselves after the first couple of days, our own West Coast oasis to celebrate Jean Robert’s birthday and the arrival of June. It was funny to consider that we had been on the road for over six weeks already, but it wasn’t even summer yet. There was still so much more to come…
If you’re considering a paddling trip to Desolation Sound yourself, keep in mind that a payment scheme for the camping is being introduced. It was meant to start June 1, but we saw few signs and information regarding it on our trip. We asked the local kayak companies about it before we went, but they did not know the details, believing that the fees would come into force later in the season.